La Sportiva Exum Pro

I’ve been guiding for about 25 years and am always on the look out for a better approach shoe. This class of shoe has its work cut out for it since it needs to hike comfortably AND climb well – at least on easy 5th class terrain. The La Sportiva Exum Pro’s I got at the beginning of the summer balance that equation incredibly well.

I’ll admit that I’ve loved my La Sportiva Exum Ridge’s that I’ve been using for a couple of summers now and was a bit dubious about the idea that La Sportiva was tweaking them and giving them a new name: the Exum Pro. Like most of us, I don’t like change…especially when it comes to climbing apparel that works. Admittedly, me and my gray hair come from the school of ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!’ However, since La Sportiva had discontinued the Exum Ridge, and duct tape or shoe goo was no longer an option for my old stand-bys, I reluctantly (and with some unbecoming grumbling) ordered ‘the new guys’.

Surprisingly, I’ve discovered that La Sportiva can teach an old dog new tricks – old approach shoes AND old guides! With the Exum Pro they’ve kept the ‘good’ and added some ‘better’ to it. They’ve added a softer feel to the Pro’s hiking comfort (almost like a running shoe!). The Exum Ridge was a bit harder with each step – something I’d learned to live with to get the climbing performance I wanted. Another added bonus of the Pro’s is their fit: a wee bit more relaxed. They are a hair wider in the toe box and a touch longer in the length which makes them even more comfortable on those steep descents. And climbing performance? The Pro climbs just as well as the Exum Ridge ever did.

Bottom line: If you’re a fan of the Exum Ridge then you’ll love the Exum Pro. If you haven’t tried either then this is one approach shoe that comes highly recommended from an old dog still learning new tricks.

To learn more about the Exum Pro and other great Sportiva climbing shoes please visit Sportiva NA

Bob Chase
CMS Senior Guide
bchase@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

Black Diamond RPM Pack

Naturally, I’m pretty lazy. I don’t like doing things twice and I don’t like doing more work than I have to. That’s why Black Diamond’s RPM Pack is a real joy to have on many of my RMNP excursions. People often comment on the size of my packs, like: “Dude, that pack is tiny…how do you fit it all in there?” Well, where there’s a will, especially a lazy one, there is a way.

You see, I just don’t like carrying a lot of stuff. Carrying a lot of stuff feels like work and when I’m in the mountains I’d rather be having fun. The RPM is a light, durable, low-profile pack that can go anywhere I can. Folk always buy these do-it-all packs with all these pricey bells and whistles that are often the byproduct of poor design. Not so with the RPM. Its beauty is in its simplicity. The RPM is designed like a stuff-sack, so you can just cram it all in and then zip it shut; no annoying “lightweight” buckles to fumble with or too-long, face-smacking straps to endure on windy days. It does what a pack should do: stay out of the way, allowing you to move like it isn’t even there.

The RPM has become my primary guiding pack for many trips, especially for rock and alpine rock venues…sort of a 3-season, crossover pack. I can easily fit a 1st aid kit; 2.5 liters of water via hydration system; a rack of draws, lockers, cordelettes, etc; a rack of cams, nuts, and/or screws; my climbing shoes; a harness, a couple light layers or one puffy jacket; my lunch and my helmet always sits on top. For those light-and-fast alpine blitzes, two external ice axe loops adjust to carry whatever my route demands. The mesh side pouches come in handy for carrying my Patagonia Houdini jacket and Buff on one side and my sunscreen, lip balm, and gloves on the other. A design bonus is in the compression system. Once you unpack, rack up, and start your climb, you don’t have to worry about having a deflated, awkward-looking, and bulky wrinkled-raisin on your back. Simply pull the draw-cord and the RPM compresses down to fit whatever is left inside. I love climbing with this pack!

As if one could improve upon perfection, the waist belt ain’t one of those bulky, padded, “removable” jobs your grandma would use as a backyard lawn cushion. Instead, it’s an oddly effective strap that doesn’t cover up the gear loops on your harness as you climb (one of my chief complaints with other “climbing” packs). There are a couple of adequately-sized zipper pockets on top for carrying maps, compass, lighter and as always, a car-key clip so you don’t show back up at the trailhead looking like a douf in front of your angry friends.

One thing I wish the RPM had is a rope-carrying system, just a simple nylon strap like on Black Diamond’s Instinct pack would do. I lay awake at night trying to figure out how to rig a solution for this myself…no, not really. I just carry a rope mountaineer-style or stuff it inside for those sport-climbing days. Once again, Black Diamond has created a near-perfect lazy-man pack for those of us who want a pack that can do most of it without forcing us to do more than we must.

To learn more about the RPM pack and other great Black Diamond products, please visit BlackDiamond.com.

Andrew Councell
Guide/Lodging Manager
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Instructor
Colorado Mountain School
341 Moraine Avenue
Estes Park, CO 80517
800.836.4008
TotalClimbing.com

Sterling Ion 9.5mm Rope

Carpenters have their hammer, Surgeons their scalpel, and Mountain Guides have their rope. I can’t think of too many other pieces of gear that I use on such a regular basis. Sometimes I’m in mountain boots (read my review of La Sportiva's Trango Extreme Evo Light), sometimes in rock shoes, some days I place ice screws for protection, some days nuts and cams, but almost always I have a rope with me.

Recently I had the opportunity to test the new Sterling Ion 9.5 mm rope. I put over 40 days of hard use on it. Over 50 pitches of ice, 25 pitches of rock and even several gym session mega-whippers. I would be lying if I said the rope looked brand new, but compared to some other ropes with similar use, the Ion is still standing and ready for many more deployments into harms way.

Pros: Very durable, easy to coil and uncoil, feeds for lead belays very smoothly, overall weight for such a durable rope is quite good. This will be one of my go-to ropes when I only need one for cragging or shorter multipitch days.

Cons: No factory middle mark (the middle mark is a great tool), when belaying two ropes at once from a top belay (auto blocking device being used) the Ion did not feed/pull as well as some other ropes in its class. For guiding multiple clients this makes my work a little harder and puts more strain on my elbows.

If you are looking for a durable rope in this size range I would put the Ion high on your list, as this rope will be at your side even after heavy use.

For more info, visit Sterling.com

Dale Remsberg
IFMGA/AMGA certified guide
Head Guide Colorado Mountain School
Totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

Marmot Eiger 48L

This is my first experience using a Marmot pack and I have to say, I’m impressed. Working as a professional mountain guide, I spend a lot of time in the field and subsequently lots of time wearing a pack. Therefore, I look for something that fits well and has simple, yet useful features without too many bells and whistles. I have found this in the Marmot Eiger 48L pack.

I first used this on a guided ascent of the Dragontail Couloir in Rocky Mountain National Park. The pack easily accommodated all the necessary equipment for a full day of Alpine abuse. Features include a crampon pouch, dual ice axe slots, and hydration system. The fully adjustable shoulder straps and padded hip belt made the approach comfortable.

When it was time to climb, the pack compressed to a more climbing friendly size. The removable top lid was able to fit inside and the side compression straps cinched for a more streamlined fit.
As we topped out in near white-out conditions, the mesh pocket on the hip belt was perfect for GPS and map storage to easily navigate on the descent.

There is no doubt that this will be my go-to pack for all guiding objectives this season. From classic alpine routes in RMNP to rock climbing in Eldorado Canyon, this pack can do it all.

For more info, visit Marmot.com

Eric Whewell
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Colorado Mountain School
www.totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

Black Diamond Chaos Harness

There was a stretch of time when I had stopped using Black Diamond harnesses. While other companies were developing new designs and technologies, BD seemed to be falling behind the curve when it came to innovation in the realm of climbing harnesses. BD won me back to their side when they incorporated the “bullhorn”-shaped waist belt. However there was one notable exception – the original Chaos. I just could not get a good fit and found it to be uncomfortable, hot, and heavy. When the opportunity presented itself to try the new Chaos '09, based on past experience, I almost said no thanks. That would have been a big mistake on my part.

BD has developed a new design, Kinetic Core Construction, which sets new standards in function and fit. The 2009 version of the Chaos far surpasses earlier versions of this model and is among the most comfortable harnesses I have ever worn. While working a rescue course recently, I spent a lot of “hang time’ in this harness. My weight was distributed evenly between the waist belt and leg loops and the lower back support was incredible. The large gear loops made racking and gear management a pleasure. After a day of sport climbing, I got halfway home before I realized I still had my harness on – a sure sign of comfort in my mind.

There are a couple of things that could use improvement. I did not find the drop seat feature on the rear leg risers to be user friendly and I have some questions about the stiff gear loops getting in the way in off-widths.

Despite these minor points, the Chaos is a great harness. Whether used for work or play, this all-around harness is worth checking out. I look forward to seeing BD incorporate the Kinetic Core Construction into their entire line of harnesses.

To learn more about the Chaos harness and other great Black Diamond products, please visit BlackDiamond.com.

Ed Crothers

Colorado Mountain School

AMGA Certified Rock Instructor

AIARE Level 1 Instructor

800-836-4008

www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot Mica Jacket

This spring I was in need of a new waterproof shell…bad! I’ve worn out my Precip after years of abuse in the mountains, at the crags, and in the bottom of my pack. When I jumped on Marmot’s website and saw the Mica Jacket it seemed to fit the bill. My criteria was simple: lightweight (7 ozs) and waterproof (MemBrain Strata). That’s all I was really looking for in terms of base features. Marmot has always been spot-on with fit made for the field. They pay close attention to details like hoods that actually work with a helmet and room in the arms and body that allow you to move when skiing and climbing.

When the jacket arrived I was impressed by it’s packability. It stuffs down into one of the two hand pockets (about the size of an orange). Perfect for clipping to the harness or shoving into my pack.

Then came the true test. Front Range wind and snow on an early morning ski tour in the Indian Peaks. It was one of those days in the Colorado high country, when winter returns with a vengeance. I’d dressed for spring, for a fast tempo skin and ski, not for these temps, not for nukin’ wind and recycled snow ripping through the air. The jacket lived up to my past experiences with Marmot’s gear. It worked - and worked well. It broke the wind and kept me dry. It allowed me to stay warm in the wind and not overheat on the skin. The cuffs stayed down over my gloves and the hood provided the needed room and protection.

I’m looking forward to the spring and summer season ahead in Rocky Mountain National Park. Having the Mica in my pack will be a relief when the wind howls and the rain decides to wash me off a climb. If you’re in need, check out Marmot’s Mica Jacket.

Cost: $130 – You can’t beat that for a fully waterproof shell!

For more info on Marmot’s '09 line, check out: Marmot.com

Simon Fryer
Boulder Rock Club & Colorado Mountain School
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO. 80301
303.865.3604
www.totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Wildcat

The new Wildcat running shoe from La Sportiva quickly became my favorite running shoe this winter. The shoe fits my foot perfectly and is the most cushioned shoe from La Sportiva. I thought there was a chance this would make the shoe unstable, but I could not have been more mistaken. The shoe is stable, has good traction, and breaths well.

I have worn the shoe running on dirt, mud, snow, and ice. The shoe excelled in all but the ice arena and luckily I have a pair of Fireblades with the hobnails in them for that. The spring season will surely bring more mud and heat, and I believe this is where the breathable mesh will really excel. If you have cold feet, this may not be the winter running shoe for you. I wore the shoes in Alaska in February with heavy socks and they performed with aplomb.

If you are looking for a well cushioned, comfortable, trail running shoe, look no further. I have about 25 days of running on them and I look forward to the next 25. Happy trails.

Mike Alkaitis
Total Climbing
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO 80301
303-447-2804 ext 107
malkaitis@totalclimbing.com

Sterling Nano 9.2mm Rope

The Specs: Technology in climbing rope manufacturing has taken leaps and bounds in the last 10 years. Where 11 mm diameter ropes were once (not too long ago) the standard, now rope manufacturers are able to make skinnier and skinnier ropes without much compromise in strength. Thin cords are definitely the new standard and Sterling Rope's Nano 9.2mm is the cream of the crop. They have created this rope as an ultra light red-point rope, that can still handle 6 UIAA falls. In Sterling's case, they actually round down to be extra safe for their fall ratings; In one of three tests the Nano actually held 8 UIAA falls. With an impact force of 8.4KN, the Nano guarantees a soft catch. And at a measly 53 grams per meter, a 70 meter Nano will likely weigh in lighter than your 60 meter 9.8mm.

The Rope: This cord is skinny. It will take a while to get used to handling it, both for the belayer and the climber. After you get used to clipping or belaying with this thing, you will be hooked. Right away you will notice how small the rope packs down, and the drastic difference in your pack weight. The sheath holds up to some serious abuse as well, with my 70 meter showing no signs of wear after over a year of moderate use. This rope actually gets a lower impact force rating than some of Sterling's larger ropes so you can expect an ultra soft catch if you happen to pitch from your project. I use one as a red-point rope, and recently I have been putting another one to the test as an indoor rope as well - I can't get enough. I've heard rumors that a 70 meter Nano is the best alpine single rope option, as well as rumors of doubling up 60m Nanos for an ultra burly half rope. It comes in three lengths and two mega-bright colors.

Overall: Don't be intimidated by the skinny cord. When first belaying with a skinny, I would suggest beginning by using a Petzl Freino belay biner if you'd like (for added friction when lowering), or simply use gloves. The Nano is as strong or quite possibly stronger than your 9.8mm, so don't let the thinness fool you. The Sterling Nano 9.2mm will pack smaller, weigh much less and handle better than you had ever thought possible, so don't be scared, go skinny.

J-Star (Jonathan Siegrist)
www.jstarinorbit.com