BRC/CMS Gear Review

La Sportiva TC Pro

2011-07-12T08:36:00.000-07:00

Well the La Sportiva TC Pro’s have a lot of hype to live up to. They are a top shelf Italian made shoe designed by one of climbing’s premier golden boys, Tommy Caldwell. They are touted as being exceptional on long, varied trad lines... and they are! Even with the hefty price tag attached to these high end performers they are gathering a devout following.

I’ve been fortunate to test these out in a variety of settings- techy 180’ trad pitches in Devil’s Tower, remote Wyoming granite, dolomite pocket pulling in Sinks Canyon, slamming them into splitters at the Creek and many places around Boulder. For me, I was pulling them out as a substitute for my La Sportiva Miuras. This took some getting used to since there is more rubber underfoot than the Miuras and other similar shoes. Once I came to know the different dimensions of the TC Pros, I came to love them. I also found I was a 1/2 size smaller in these than in my Miuras.

Though they are designed for Tommy to slay his latest sketch-fest on El Cap, I found myself loving them the most on Tommy’s humble original stomping ground- Lumpy Ridge. On any giving granite multi-pitch there, you are likely to find endless granite flares, where your mid-top covered ankles are thanking you, followed by technical slab climbing, where you’re toes are giving praise to the precise cut of the rubber, and at the top out your whole foot is happy for the rigid support they’ve had received all day. On these balmy summer days I have also been loving the breathable mesh upper and the many ventilation holes on the side.

Although they’re a hefty $170 to cough up on the front end, the solid and rugged design makes their longevity part of this quality investment. You’ll still be into them when you’re just taking them to the re-soler two years from now, not to the trash can. I give these shoes a big ol’ two thumbs up. Like Tommy himself these are a stunning synthesis of old school meets new school.

Rainbow Weinstock

AMGA Certified Guide
CMS Guide

Check 'em out:

http://www.sportiva.com/

Black Diamond's Speed Pack 30L

2011-07-07T11:51:00.000-07:00

Black Diamond’s Speed Pack 30L was the perfect pack for my AMGA Alpine Guide Course, which included one-day “fast and light” ascents of alpine rock/snow in the Rocky Mountain National Park this Spring. The Speed Pack’s integrated hydration system was key and enabled me to stay hydrated while constantly on the move. Although I’ll admit that I did not quite “on-sight” how to attach ice tools on the pack initially, the Speed Pack’s IceLink tool attachments system is quite clever. Once you “red-point” the system for attaching the tools, they come on and off easily and eliminate slippage of tools from the pack. If 2 lb 11 oz (Size S) is not light enough, you can also strip the Speed Pack’s padded hip belt, aluminum frame & frame sheet and top lid to make it an ultra-light summit pack.

The pack’s SwingArm suspension shoulder straps took a little bit to get used to – in a good way. The Speed Pack’s back support system moves with you, whether swinging a tool, scrambling, or technical rock climbing, the pack suspension adjusts to your movements. I’ve never had such a reactive and un-cumbersome pack! Although many packs claim to have an active suspension system, the Speed Pack actually does something and you notice it right away! If you do not like the suspension system on your first date with the pack, I suggest giving anther try – you will grow to like it!

I have been using the pack since June. Now in July, we still have tons of snow left in the RMNP and the Speed Pack has been with me on every alpine ascent! Thanks Black Diamond for a comfortable and light alpine pack!

Norie Kizaki
AMGA Certified
CMS Guide

Check out their gear and packs at Black Diamond's web site:
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/

La Sportiva's TC Pros

2011-07-07T09:08:00.000-07:00

My pair of La Sportiva TC Pros are just getting “broken in”, just beginning to mold to my feet. Initially they felt a little boxy to me, kind of big and stiff compared to the shoes I had been wearing. Soon however, I became a believer.

Even during the break-in period I have used them to onsight 5.11d thin granite face/edge climbing, guide sandstone classics up to seven pitches long and smear confidently on gneiss sport climbs. I also wore them on steep basalt during a recent road trip. Heck, I even bouldered with them in the gym!

In every situation they have performed flawlessly, fostering confidence and good footwork. No surprise that they edge like demons, what did surprise me was how well they smeared, which is extremely well. Though they are not the most sensitive shoes I have worn, I never question them; they stick.

I only expect greater things now that I have entered the comfort zone with them. I can’t wait for the alpine rock season to begin in earnest in Rocky Mountain National Park, as the TC Pros are going to be awesome on the Diamond and everything else up there. I’m also psyched to have these as my go to shoes later this summer in Squamish.

The shoes are still like new, rubber and all, and as mentioned my feet are just now feeling like the TC Pros and they have a real relationship.

I think it is going to be a long and beautiful one.

Mark Hammond

Head Guide, Colorado Mountain School

Check them out at:
http://www.sportiva.com/

La Sportiva's Katana

2011-07-05T10:32:00.001-07:00

A well balanced combination of comfort and technical ability meets your foot with La Sportiva's Katana. There is a man's and a woman's version of this shoe. The woman's is lower volume for those with smaller feet. Mike Soucy is a fan:

"Ever since their inception, the Katana Velcros have been my go-to kicks for any and all high performance climbing. They edge and smear well, have a reasonably chiseled toe for thin cracks, and can be worn comfortably on multi-pitch routes. My Morton’s toe (second is longer than the big) makes Miuras feel like mid-evil torture on my feet. Katanas, with a flatter last and a more forgiving toe box, strike the perfect balance between comfort and performance. Over the past three or four pair that I’ve owned, my Katanas have climbed in Eldo, at Lumpy Ridge, on the Diamond, Boulder Canyon, South Platte, Rifle, the BRC, and just about anywhere else in the spectrum of climbing. They can be sized for a totally flat fit or a slightly curled performance fit. Recently, I’ve even heard of folks sizing them up to wear with socks as a high-end alpine rock shoe. If you’re looking for a new performance shoe for the summer, sport or trad, give these a try. They’re a great alternative to the aggressive fit of the Miura and will have you reaching for them for many different climbing pursuits."

Mike Soucy
AMGA Certified Rock Guide

Colorado Mountain School

msoucy@totalclimbing.com

Also, here is a link to La Sportiva's website: http://www.sportiva.com/

La Sportiva's Ganda Guide

2011-07-05T09:50:00.005-07:00

Want something that does it all? Look no further, the Ganda Guide has turned out to be packed with ability. From long approaches to technical fith class climbs; the Ganda Guide is for those who want to be efficent and keep one pair of shoes on thier feet all day long. Check out what our guide Eric Whewell has to say about them:

"I have had numerous pairs of La Sportiva approach shoes. The Ganda Guide, is by far the most technical. This shoe is similar to the Ganda, but in a high top version and comes with a roomier toe box for long approaches. So far, the shoe has great support when carrying a heavy pack on fourth and easy fifth class terrain. It features a full length lace system right down to the toes for micro adjustments in tightness. The shoes utilize Vibram Idro-Grip for ultra stickiness with a slip lasted forefoot and board lasted heel.

For how beefy the shoe is, it basically climbs like a rock shoe. I have been able to lead up to 5.9 and follow 5.10 in these shoes. They climb great and are comfortable enough for long approaches. I suspect that these will hold up to seasons of guiding abuse and see many resoles!"

Eric Whewell
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Colorado Mountain School
ewhewell@totalclimbing.com

Check out La Sportiva's Website for more information http://www.sportiva.com/

La Sportiva Trango Evo Boots

2011-06-21T09:50:00.002-07:00

I love my new Trango S Evo GTX boots! I just used them for a work assignment, guiding the Keyhole on Longs Peak. The Trango Evos are the perfect boot for this type of climb in spring. The boots were comfortable from start to finish, worked well on the dry trail at the start and worked even better when I got to the snow shortly thereafter. The strong and durable lug sole assisted me with kicking perfect steps for my clients, and with the sticky sole I was confident of being surefooted when rock climbing and boulder hopping. The transition to crampons higher on the route was quick and easy with the crampon compatibility (TPU crampon reinforcement), and the boots worked almost as well as an ice climbing boot for climbing snow and ice. Oh yeah, it's as light as a tennis shoe and my feet felt great after the sixteen mile round trip - this boot does it all if it's not too cold!

Have fun and be safe out there.

Steve Johnson
Colorado Mountain School Senior Mountain Guide
AMGA Rock and Alpine Guide Certified

http://www.sportiva.com/

Marmot Ether Jacket

2011-05-31T14:02:00.001-07:00

Revo Abyss Sunglasses

2011-05-13T10:51:00.001-07:00

I have been wearing the Revo Abyss sunglasses throughout the last weeks’ fantastically diverse spring season -- rock climbing and trail running in the Front Range, and alpine ice climbing and backcountry skiing in the high mountains. We Coloradans are truly lucky to get the best of both worlds right now! When CMS asked me to test the Revo Abyss sunglasses, I was a little skeptical. I thought, “They won’t fit on my tiny Asian nose!” Impressively, though, the Revo Abyss have been my “go to” sunglasses everyday during the last 3 weeks, across all these varied activities. And, maybe more importantly, I may have finally discovered active and functional sunglasses that aren’t just for boys – and that fit my Asian nose!*** Hooray!

The Revo Abyss sunglasses have curved lenses that nicely wrap around your eyes and face, shielding reflection and sun from the sides. The Abyss work exceptionally well on snow and rock as their Polarcast Polarization Technology eliminates glare. While climbing steep snow and alpine ice, I noticed that the Abyss had great downward vision and allowed me to focus on my footing as I climbed.

Most importantly, the view of the world through Abyss has been stunning. I have seen beautiful snow filled mountains and ridges in Rocky Mountain National Park, red and yellow color rock in Eldorado Canyon, and beautiful snowflakes that land on my jacket. I can see them all sharply and clearly!

Bottom line: The Revo Abyss are great shades for getting out and getting after it in the mountains. And did I mention they fit an Asian nose? Thanks Revo!!!

***Please note that you do not need an Asian nose to wear these glasses. I am sure it fits you fine.

For more information about Revo's sunglasses please check out their website: http://revo.com

Norie Kizaki
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Instructor
nkizaki@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Python

2011-04-04T13:05:00.002-07:00

La Sportiva’s climbing slipper product line and subsequent product life-cycle have been interesting. The Viper and Venom, both solid offerings, are no longer available. The Cobra after being discontinued in the States was reintroduced a couple years ago. Just last year, the Speedster was debuted; however, the shoe remains somewhat unpopular, as it is extremely soft, has no midsole, and occupies a narrow niche.

La Sportiva’s new high-performance slipper for 2011, the Python, is an upgrade of the venerable Cobra (an eleven-year-old classic). The feel, fit, and construction of the two shoes are radically different. The Python, like the Cobra, is unlined and still has the PD 75 asymmetric shape. However, the changes to the Python include a cross band construction under the sole (P3), which keeps the shoe in a permanently down-turned shape; an external heel cup; extra rubber on the forefoot area; stiffer leather in the toe box, and a single Velcro strap at the top of the shoe. Targeted at the modern competition climber, this high performance slipper will excel at steep sport climbs and bouldering as well. The extra toe rubber aids in technical toe hooks and bicycle moves, while the external heel cup and tension strap improve heel hooking. The Python even keeps the unique orange color of the Cobra.

Is the upgrade a better performer? After several weeks of testing including hard bouldering and sport climbing on plastic, granite and sandstone, I can say the Python is different, but not better than the Cobra in terms of performance. The Python’s stiffer leather in the toe box does not adapt to the foot like the custom molded fit of the Cobra, which may be the ultimate feature of a slipper. Having the Python’s extra toe rubber is nice for certain moves though (deep toe hooks). The Python’s extra rubber on the heel is better for technical heel hooks, but lacks the sensitivity of the Cobra’s softer heel. The downturn of the Python due to the P3 construction holds the shape of the shoe better; however, when sized properly, the Cobra is down-turned after the shoe is pulled onto your foot. It just won’t stay in the down-turned position when sitting on the shelf. The Cobra is a much more sensitive and precise shoe, while the Python feels more “constructed” like the Solution, with slightly better edging capabilities due to the stiffer toe box. Both shoes have the same .8 mm midsole.

I was surprised that the two shoes although seemingly related, climb quite differently. The Python actually climbs more like a Solution than the Cobra. Both are performers. Are the Python’s upgraded features a performance boost over the simple, clean one-piece leather design of the Cobra? For modern competition climbing on plastic, replete with scumming and other trickery – I would give the Python the edge. For steep outside sport climbing on rock, the power and precision of the Cobra cannot be beat. I think it is wise that La Sportiva markets the Python as a plastic shoe and keeps the Cobra in the product line, as both are performance tools occupying different niches.

Dan Levison
Boulder Rock Club
ACE-CPT Personal Trainer
dlevision@totalclimbing.com

Marmot Women's Reyna Soft-shell Jacket

2011-03-30T07:28:00.001-07:00

The Marmot Women's Reyna Jacket is perfect for variable conditions - snowy weather, windy conditions, or even on a sunny day. I tested this jacket while backcountry ski guiding for two months in Hokkaido, the snowy northern island of Japan. Upon returning to sunny Colorado, the Reyna Jacket was still perfect for spring tours and climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Looking back, I have worn the Reyna Jacket on every guiding day of the past several months -- on windy and bitter cold days down to -20c and splitter blue sky days into up to 60F. In full-on conditions, it was great as a wind stopper underneath the Marmot Dena Jacket (http://marmot.com/products/wms_dena_jacket). The Reyna Jacket's excellent hood helps trap heat also protects you from the wind! The combination of Marmot Reyna Jacket and Dena Jacket were the key this winter.

Surprisingly breathable, you can wear the Reyna as an outer layer on warmer days or while skinning up a mountain. Thanks to under-arm zippers, I never over-heated while skiing or climbing, even when other had to strip a layer, prompting my clients to ask, "How is it that you never need to take layers on and off?" Magic, I guess -- or maybe just the Reyna Jacket.

If you catch me guiding in Rocky Mountain National Park this Spring and Summer, chances are I will STILL be wearing the Reyna Jacket. Makes me wonder if I am going to be wearing this jacket for an entire year?

Ladies, I guess the question is not whether you should get yourself a Marmot Reyna Jacket (you should), the question is just whether to get two!

Thanks Marmot for such a functional jacket!

Norie Kizaki

CMS Guide

nkizaki@totalclimbing.com

www.totalclimbing.com

For more information on the Reyna Jacket check out Marmot's website: www.marmot.com

K2 Sidestash

2011-03-11T08:42:00.001-07:00

It is getting hard to find a one-ski quiver. Dimensions are growing impossibly wide and rocker is becoming ridiculous. It makes me cringe to see a young skier squeegee hardpack and bumplines like an intermediate snowboarder. As an all mountain, all conditions skier with a ski racing background, I like skis that rail on the hard snow at high speed, snap through tight chutes on demand, and gracefully float the pow. Is that too much to ask?
I've been able to test the K2 Sidestash throughout a range of conditions this past month, and I must say, we have a winner.

To be honest, K2 has not been my choice for the last several years because I felt they lacked the stability and response that I desired. I chose the brand this year because I needed a lightweight and versatile backcountry board; which I found in the Coomback. The Sidestash, with its wider overall dimension (139/108/127), slightly rockered tip, and additional metal laminate, appealed to me as a resort/sidecountry ski. So onto the 181 went the Freerides. This was not meant to be an ultralight touring ski, even with the lightest of tech bindings attached.

Its first round consisted of 15" new out in Rock Springs at Jackson Hole. Easy. It floats well, you can't sink the tip, etc., etc.
Bring it back inbounds. Tower Three Chute after noon. Tracked out chunder. The rockered tip skis like the hull of a Boston Whaler. What crud? When the conditions change rapidly, throw it sideways a bit and feel the tail hook up. Load it up and crank a couple of short turns through the choke, then let them run. Solid and quiet.

Round two, Birds of Prey downhill course at Beaver Creek. Steep hardpack. Run them through the range of turn radii and pinpoint the weakness(es). Short fall line turns, medium radius GS turns, and eye-watering hang on for dear life turns. Well.....couldn't get the shovel to chatter, couldn't wash out the tail. Hmmmmm. I guess that putting a 108mm waisted ski on edge takes a bit of effort. But it's still pretty quick. And stable enough to scare me.

Third and final round. Day tour on Vail Pass. Aha. My hip flexors hurt. Maybe I'll stick with the lighter Coomback/Dynafit combo for this. But I sure like the way that they handle that breakable suncrust.
The K2 precut skins attach easily and securely. They climb well, they glide well. No complaints.

In short, I feel there are three things that K2 has nailed in designing this ski:
All Terrain Rocker. Enough to keep it afloat, not so much that the shovel feels like one of those car dealership inflatables.
Metal laminate. Yes, this is a heavier ski, but it inspires confidence in any terrain that you take it on and keeps the ski quiet at high speeds.
Flat tail. It hooks up when you need it and provides enough snap to predictably bring the ski around.

This ski should be considered the anchor of K2's Adventure Ski line. It's the board that you can take to the resort all year, use on your Valdez spring heli trip, and ski corn when you return. Given its less aggressive rocker and metal laminate, I'd size this one more like a flat ski, no need to size up IMO. The 181 is perfect for me, a 150# guy that likes to push skis pretty hard. I was able to ski them with a stiffer AT Boot (Garmont Radium), but I wouldn't go any softer than that. With its reasonable turn radius (23m), I can see it as a good option for the tele skier as well. For backcountry use, make an effort to track down some of the precut skins, the attachment system is quite convenient.

Mike Soucy
CMS Guide
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
msoucy@totalclimbing.com

Ski Repair Kit: Build Your Own

2011-03-03T16:56:00.000-07:00

If you're heading into the backcountry for a day or multi-day tour it's key to have a ski repair kit. You never know when something is going to crap out. You can save the day and avoid a potential epic by putting together your own kit. Here are a few things I have in my pack:

Day touring repair kit:

duct tape

spare ski pole basket

hose clamps for ski pole repair

bailing wire

multitool w/ pliers and wire cutters, etc.

binding buddy tool with applicable driver bits

spare climbing skin parts- tip loop, tail strap and clips

zip ties, assorted

climbing skin wax

small bar universal glide wax

small ski base scraper

binding screw repair kit- assorted binding screws, steel wool, gorilla super glue or quick cure epoxy

several long voile ski straps

Additional multiday items to consider:

spare binding components for tele and AT bindings, i.e. heel or toe assemblies, heel throws, cables

small helicoil kit to properly repair pulled binding screws

spare beacon batteries

spare boot buckle

small file

Enjoy your next day of skiing and stay safe in the backcountry.

Mike Soucy

CMS Guide

msoucy@totalclimbing.com

Backcountry Access Stash Alp 40 Pack

2011-01-24T11:15:00.002-07:00

I’ve been using BCA packs for several years now, so I was excited to get my hands on the latest Stash Alp 40 pack. I am extremely particular when it comes to ski packs – a good ski pack has to carry well both when it’s nearly empty and stuffed to over-flowing, it has to strike the right blend of durability and light weight, and it has to have a user friendly diagonal ski carry. After many days and thousands of vertical, I can honestly say that the latest Alp 40 from BCA is one of the best packs I’ve ever carried.

BCA kept all of the features from their previous models that were so popular, for example: the dedicated probe and shovel pockets, the Nalgene compatible hydration system, and just the right amount (and location) of pockets. The real kicker is in the upgrades for this model. BCA used a thicker, more durable fabric for this version, but kept the empty pack weight at less than 3.5 lb. In my experience, this is about as light weight as you can go for a pack that you plan to strap sharp objects to (like skis and a mountain axe). The suspension system is also vastly improved in this model. The shoulder straps are wider and use new materials, and the back panel has more support and padding, making for a very comfortable carry. The side access zipper is also vastly improved. In this model, the zipper joins the padded back panel to the rest of fabric of the pack itself (see photo). This is a much more user friendly design. Another new feature is the roll-top closure – similar to what you find on a dry bag. At first I was a little skeptical, but after a few days where the wind chill was pushing -30 °F, I found the roll top design to be easier to use with full expedition mittens than a traditional zipper or pull-cord. Now that I’m used to the roll top, I’m starting to wish some of my other packs had this feature.

The final improvement that sealed the deal for me was the re-designed diagonal ski carry. I spend many (many) hours in the spring with skis strapped to my back climbing up steep couloirs. Over the years, most of the “injuries” that I have sustained were from the skis on my pack – they would either hit me in the back of the head if carried “A-frame” style or hit me in the calves if carried vertically. BCA’s previous pack designs have included a diagonal ski carry, but because of the location of the attachments skis would usually end up carrying closer to vertical, especially if the pack was not stuffed full. In the new Alp 40, the top attachment for the diagonal carry has been integrated with the attachment point of the shoulder strap. This makes the ski carry truly diagonal and actually quite comfortable.

See you in the backcountry.

Matt Lipscomb

CMS Guide

AIARE L1 Instructor

mlipscomb@totalclimbing.com

Want to improve your backcountry skiing skills and gain confidence in decision making in the mountains? Join CMS for a L1 Avalanche Course or a day of guided backcountry skiing this season.

Marmot Dena Jacket

2011-01-10T13:59:00.004-07:00

The Marmot Dena Jacket is a women specific synthetic insulated jacket. Not only is it warm, light and durable, it also uses recycled or discarded materials that otherwise go to landfills. So, in essence, it is double light (i.e., on weight and on the environment)!

I tested this jacket backcountry skiing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Vail Pass, and Red Mountain Pass in the San Juans, as well as ice climbing in Ouray. It is a perfect layer on a cold or snowy day in the mountains. The hood works great over your ski hat to give some extra warmth. It’s also a good piece to throw in your backpack as an extra layer since it only weights about 12oz. In addition, I must mention that my Dena Jacket is a feminine light-blue color. I received numerous compliments from several women while walking and skiing around the Vail Resort!

Adding the Marmot Dena over my Marmot Oracle jacket worked great. It easily fit over my ice climbing harness and kept me extra warm on a cold bitter day. The jacket features something called “Angel-Wing Movement”. This fancy feature allows full range of arm motion which really helps when you are swinging your ice tools.

This has become my favorite go-to jacket on a cold day. So if you tend to get cold in the mountains like I do, try out this jacket. And if you want to stay warm and still look good, check out the light blue color, you will not be disappointed!

Have fun and stay warm out there,

Norie Kazaki

Colorado Mountain School Guide

AMGA Certified Rock Instructor

BD Punisher Glove

2011-01-04T09:29:00.001-07:00

When I chose a glove for mountain guiding I need something that performs well. This winter I wanted to try out the Black Diamond Punisher Glove. I have been out this winter several times with the BD Punisher. I have a few guidelines that the glove has to meet.

One of my more important concerns is that the glove has dexterity. I like placing protection on lead that flows smoothly. I do not like to fumble around with big puffy gloves while leading ice climbs. The BD punisher has a sleek low profile design that allows for easy handling of my ice equipment. A quick test for me to tell if the glove has precision is too be able to tie my ice boots without taking my gloves off and the Punisher passed.

A second concern of mine is the ability of the glove to stay somewhat dry while being out all day in adverse conditions. My body runs hot so I have a style of hiking in to the climb with a BD mid-weight super breathable liner so I do not sweat into the glove that I will be ice climbing in. When I was climbing in negative degree weather the punisher stayed warm and breathed pretty well I found while ice climbing and belaying.

I have been guiding for a decade now and I have seen the sport develop a bit over the years. I like the fact that gear is getting more modern. There has been some thought on Black Diamonds part, I have experienced the functionality of the Punisher. Like the glove keeper loops on the finger so I am able to store my gloves upside down on my gear loops so no falling snow is able to get inside of the glove. I also discovered that there is softer material on the thumb that I use as a nose wipe in really cold weather. It’s the little things like that in the back country, which gives me a bit more comfort.

Whether I am chopping steps with my piolet or bashing icecicles with my Cobra’s I will be wearing my BD Punishers on my next guiding adventure.

Joey Thompson
CMS Guide
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AMGA SPI Program Director

Black Diamond Cosmo Headlamp

2010-12-23T09:22:00.000-07:00

Before I review this headlamp, I have to put some things in perspective. I’ve been guiding for CMS for 20 years now. Whether I like it or not, that makes me an old guy. And like many of my old guy compatriots I’m not particularly tech-savvy and I don’t really like change. For example, I still have a land based phone and I have staunchly avoided Facebook. While I’m not a total Luddite, some of my techy friends have been known to call me ‘retro-tech’ or ‘slowie’.

While all this may seem quite beside the point, stick with me - it will eventually make sense.

I’ve been guiding for 25+ years now and so I’ve spent a good portion of my life doing middle of the night approaches. Thankfully, I’ve done far fewer middle of the night descents, though I’ve done my share of those as well. I’ve always preferred headlamps that have 2 straps (one around your head and one over the top) because I have a prima donna skull and I get headaches easily when my hats, helmets, or headlamps are too tight for an extended period of time. The strap over the top allows me to keep the strap around my poor, sensitive head loose and comfortable. Two straps have always worked for me. Why would I want to change a system that’s been working perfectly well for years now?!

Now that I’ve given you more than sufficient good reason to be sympathetic to my cause, you can imagine my inward groaning when the CMS office handed me the BD Cosmo Headlamp to test…a headlamp with only ONE strap. I haven’t even taken it out of the box and it has 2 strikes against it: it’s different and it’s going to give me a headache! I’m already thinking, ‘I can’t help being an old guide these days, but now it’s going to be BD’s fault that I’m a grumpy old guide!’

Imagine my surprise when I started to discover some of the user friendly features on the Cosmo like the power switch that looks tiny but that’s actually easy to use even with gloves on. And the single strap is a piece of cake to adjust while it’s on my wimpy head and while I’m walking and while I’m wearing gloves.

Even though all the lighting elements are LED, the 2 settings (a low power diffuse setting and a high power focused beam) are perfect for diverse needs like digging in your pack or night time navigation. And one of the coolest features is the dimmer function for both settings. Honestly, I thought the rheostat function was just a gimmick, but I actually use it often to customize the amount of light I need and save battery power at the same time. And never mind the fact that it’s pretty hard to come up with a good reason not to carry it as an emergency light in my pack every day I go in the field because it’s so light (54g without batteries).

And unfortunately, as much as I’d like to blame BD for making me the grumpy old guide…I can’t! The Cosmo’s light weight means I can keep the single strap quite loose and it stays in place very nicely.

So, it turns out I didn’t need the sympathy I worked so hard to generate earlier. I hate to say it, but I didn’t need to be afraid of new technology or of change…at least not with headlamps. However, I still reserve the right to be an old guy with everything else!

So I guess the bottom line is: while you won’t be talking to me on the latest smart phone or tweeting with me on Twitter, you will see me pre-dawn and post-dusk happily using the BD Cosmo. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the happy old guide!

Check out more on BD's website: Cosmo

Bob Chase

CMS SENIOR Guide

bchase@totalclimbing.com

www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot ROM Jacket

2010-11-26T09:10:00.001-07:00

Black Diamond Chaos Harness

2010-11-23T08:46:00.001-07:00

What makes a great harness? I ask myself this question with many items of gear I am lucky enough to use. If something works, why not keep using it instead of upgrading? If the new product is superior, then it makes sense to upgrade. This is the case with the new Black Diamond Chaos Harness.

My criteria for a harness: Four gear loops, pre threaded waist loop (I like not having to remember to double back), light weight, packable, and comfortable. The Chaos meets all of these expectations and adds a full strength haul loop.

The luck was with me this fall and I was able to use the harness sport climbing in the flatirons, trad climbing in Eldorado Canyon, and climbing the classics in the Boulder Rock Club. Did I fall? You bet. Did I hang? Oh yea. Did I send? Yes. I enjoyed the harness on all excursions and forgot it was there when I was climbing. Pretty cool to not think about a harness when you are trying your very hardest. The gear loops work well, the new Kinetic Core Construction and lightweight foam is supremely comfortable, the waist is adjustable enough to go over layers or cinch down over simply a tee shirt,and the harness packs well when you are carrying a trad rack and rope in the pack.

If you are looking for a new harness, or want to trade up. Try the Black Diamond Chaos harness.

Mike Alkaitis

CMS Guide

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

malkaitis@totalclimbing.com

www.totalclimbing.com

Backcountry Access Stash Pack

2010-11-22T09:17:00.001-07:00

A day-sized, comfortable, and well-featured ski pack is hard to find. They often don't fit, have too many or too few bells and whistles, or don't fit your stuff well. That's why I wrung the life out of my BCA Stash pack from 2004 until now, often logging 120+ days per season between work and play. It is simple yet effective and it's 35 liter capacity sits just so (a little bit lower than most) on my back to feel well balanced on the up and the down. When this pack finally bit the dust, it was my good fortune to be handed the newest model Stash BC for testing.

I immediately noticed two things. heavier fabric made up the body of the pack and two separate zipper compartments helped to organize my stuff. I especially appreciate the front pocket which includes probe and shovel handle sleeves; fits a shovel blade, the rest of my snow study kit, and avalung perfectly. Additional features that I won't take shears to include a stow-away helmet carrier, a fleecy goggle pocket, and the exceptionally functional hydration system that's become standard on all BCA packs.

As for the fit, the overall structure of the pack is a bit stiffer than the Stashes of old, owing to a beefier back panel. It is supportive and comfortable. The wide shoulder straps distribute weight well, but definitely fit the broad-shouldered folks better than others. With my narrow shoulders, I use the sternum strap more with this pack than others that I own. It still retains it's mid-low center of gravity, which, if you're used to a top-heavy pack, may feel like a low rider. This characteristic really shines as the pack sits perfectly on the way down.

Critical feedback for this pack includes two details. The Stash offers diagonal and side-carrying options for skis. The diagonal system is centered around the "noose strap", which is adjustable via a ratcheting strap on the hip belt. I prefer a simpler option, such that is featured on the Squall pack. That said, this is an effective way to quickly affix your skis. Secondly, a back panel zipper was added to facilitate easy access to the body of the pack while the compression straps are buckled. I find myself simply avoiding this zipper all together, unbuckling the compression straps, and using the main zipper. Additional zippers equal more opportunity for failure in my mind. That being said, these are picky details that you may find irrelevant, or you may in fact appreciate.

If you are looking for a well-designed and durable day pack for ski touring, give the Stash BC a shot. It's great to know that you're buying a product made by the BCA folks right here in Boulder, and they make it worth your while. Whenever I needed a replacement buckle for my old pack, BCA's customer service was friendly and prompt. Go to your local dealer and try it out!

Mike Soucy

CMS Guide

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

AIARE Level 1 Instructor

msoucy@totalclimbing.com

www.totalclimbing.com

Sterling Ion II Rope

2010-08-27T12:41:00.009-07:00

The Sterling Ion II 9.4mm is my climbing rope of choice when guiding high-end multi pitch alpine rock climbs. The rope has a long life, durable performance and lighter weight construction than its predecessor.

Sterling Ion II 9.4mm shaved off 3 grams per meter thus making the Ion II only 9.4mm in diameter and 57 grams per meter. The Ion II is lighter than most 9.4mm ropes and this makes guiding ice and rock a bit more comfortable for climbing long alpine ascents. With the Ion II dry treatment technology, the rope handles quite well and is a pleasure to pull through my plaquette while belaying. This new design also gives the rope a UIAA fall rating of 5, an impact force rating of 8.4n, and a dynamic elongation of 30.80%.

Keeping all this in mind, the Sterling Ion II is a must-have for me while guiding in the mountains. Whether it is a tandem rappel or a 6:1 raising system, this rope performs very well. To learn more, check out SterlingRope.com.

Joey Thompson
Colorado Mountain School
AMGA Rock Guide
AMGA SPI Program Director
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
800-836-4008
TotalClimbing.com

Marmot Women's Rockstar Pant

2010-08-18T07:10:00.002-07:00

The Marmot Rockstar pants make you feel like a rock star. Perfect for windy or chilly days, the stretchy material allows for easy, unrestricted movement. I wore the Rockstar Pants during my five-day AMGA Rock Instructor Exam, including one day during some fast moving rainstorms. Despite getting rained on, my legs were never wet and the Rockstar Pants kept me warm. These pants would be outstanding for alpine climbing excursions, spring skiing, or anytime you want to move fast and light in the mountains. Learn more at Marmot.com.

Norie Kizaki

AMGA Rock Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

nkizaki@totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Katana

2010-07-31T09:09:00.003-07:00

Katana: a curved single edged sword, traditionally used by Japanese Samurai. The Katana facilitates speed by being worn with the blade facing up allowing the Samurai to draw and cut their enemy in a single motion.

While the La Sportiva Katana may not be a sword in the traditional sense, it’s surely as precise as its Japanese counterpart. I have had 4 pairs (with resoles) of this shoe and can certainly say, the Katana is one of the finest rock climbing shoes I have worn.

CMS Guide, Eric Whewell, with comfortable feet high on The Diamond, Rocky Mountain National Park.

The shoe features a quick on and off with its Velcro closure and dual pull on loops. This allows me to easily slip the shoe off and on at belay stances on the Diamond and quickly change in and out while projecting at Rifle. It’s stiff enough for me to climb all day in and sensitive enough for delicate edging testpieces in Eldorado Canyon.

Eric Whewell utilizing La Sportiva Katanas for ultra-technical footwork on The Monument (12d, Eldo).

The Katana is a high performance shoe that excels at technical edging and precision. Like the Japanese Katana, it exemplifies not only sleekness and agility but speed as well. One of the best shoes in the La Sportiva lineup, the Katana will not disappoint.

Eric Whewell
Colorado Mountain School
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
ewhewell@totalclimbing.com
TotalClimbing.com
800-836-4008

La Sportiva Ganda

2010-07-13T07:55:00.005-07:00

As a mountain guide, what goes on my feet is one of the most important things I consider. Often while rock climbing, figuring out what combination of shoes to take on a long climb is the crux of the packing. When the climb requires a walk off in technical terrain the decision gets even harder. Do I take a very light approach shoe and rock shoes for an easy climb that requires lots of walking or do I carry a more substantial approach shoe where comfort comes first? The problem with the second option is carrying the heavy shoes in the pack can make the climb not as fun.

La Sportiva has solved this problem for me with the Ganda. It is half approach shoe half climbing shoe. While guiding in Red Rocks this fall I used the Ganda for climbs up to mid 5.10 and felt very comfortable in them. They are very comfortable for the approach and then climb like a dream. The best part is that I only had to bring one pair of shoes, making the climbing pack much lighter. The Ganda is hand made in Italy. Its craftsmenship is second to none and they should last me at least 5 years! The shoe is designed to take many resoles and athough the cost is high, its value is considerably greater than other approach shoes when you consider it’s longevity. The Ganda is not quite as comfortable as the Exum but not carrying rock shoes is a reasonable trade-off. The shoe is a bit warm due to the beefy construction. So far these are the only drawbacks I have found.

For climbs that are moderate in nature and when I only want to bring one pair of shoes the Ganda will be my first choice.

Ganda specs:

WEIGHT: 14.74 oz • 418 g LAST: Approach Tech CONSTRUCTION: Slip Lasted (forefoot)/ Board Lasted (rear) UPPER: Leather/ Vibram® rubber rands/ Synthetic leather LINING: Mesh (heel only) MIDSOLE: PU Lite SOLE: Vibram® Dot Rubber

For more information on the Ganda check out La Sportiva's website: Sportiva.com

Dale Remsberg
IFMGA/AMGA certified guide
Head Guide Colorado Mountain School
TotalClimbing.com
800-836-4008

Marmot Trail Wind Hoody

2010-07-09T09:20:00.001-07:00

Marmot Women’s Oracle Jacket

2010-07-06T13:28:00.005-07:00

I tested Marmot’s new Oracle shell during a windy and cold day of crevasse rescue practice at 12,000 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park. The Oracle blocks out wind and precipitation well, and keeps you dry and warm. The Oracle is ideally paired with the Marmot Lightweight Zip Neck. If you are looking for an ultra-lightweight, all season wind, rain, and snow season shell, the Marmot Oracle is tough to beat.

Check out the technical specs for this jacket at Marmot.com.

Norie Kizaki

AMGA Rock Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

Zeal Optics - Flyers

2010-06-23T15:51:00.003-07:00

If you’re anything like me, you tend to be pretty hard on your gear. Sometimes it’s just too difficult to buy anything nice because deep down you know it’s only a matter of time before you lose it, crush it, or drop it. Sunglasses are the prime example. Yes, more than once I’ve been that idiot snooping around like a creep, frantically asking total strangers (and amused friends) if anyone’s seen my sunglasses…while they’re either perched on my head or still on my face.

But in many ways Zeal Optics has provided solutions to these problems be they legit or of my own doing. I spend about 300 days a year in the high-alitude, not-a-cloud-in-sight-my-skin-is-igniting mountains of Colorado. Many of those days are spent thrashing myself and my gear. If a piece of gear can’t hold up, I callously leave it by the wayside; life’s too short to spend even a little of it futzing with stuff that doesn’t work.

For the most part, though, I put on my Zeal sunglasses and never think about them again. I prefer bigger frames that offer more coverage and protection from the intense, high-altitude sun, frames like the Flyer and the Emit. They offer great protection and do what they’re supposed to do: function perfectly while staying out of my way. Miraculously, I still have the same pair of original Flyers after countless forays into the mountains. I’ve dropped them, sat on them, stuffed them into the pack, ripped them off my head in some glorious ski wreck, stretched them, tweaked them, and more. Not only have they endured but they haven’t loosened up or chipped or had any of the other common faults found in a lesser brand. But should I ever break my glasses, I’m comforted by the fact that Zeal offers a lifetime warranty as well as an excellent Crash Replacement Program.

I’ve mostly reduced those embarrassing “has anyone seen my sunglasses?” moments thanks to Zeal’s ZB-13 Polarized lenses. These things are amazing! It’s like having x-ray vision when looking up at a cliff; you can literally see what’s wet by the shimmering effect on the rock. Suffice it to say this has come in handy many times in my line of work. So when these sunglasses come off, I really notice the difference right away. This has helped me countless times to keep from leaving them behind. I take them off, realize my natural vision sucks, and promptly put them back on. Problem solved. Seriously, though, my experience with Zeal Optics’ sunglasses has been nothing short of excellent. Other brands offer similar product but they’re usually not so stylish, durable, or affordable. Now if only these things would just break so that I could have the excuse to buy the latest color! Looks like I’ll be waiting a long time for that to happen…

Check out the Zeal line at ZealOptics.com.

Andrew Councell

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Instructor

Colorado Mountain School

800.836.4008

TotalClimbing.com

Marmot Aegis Jacket

2010-06-14T15:03:00.003-07:00

I’ve had a chance to wear Marmot’s Aegis Jacket now in spring and early summer conditions in both Colorado and South Dakota’s Needles and one thing is clear; I love it!

It is unbelievable that Marmot was able to load this jacket with so many useful features and keep the weight down to a bantam 14oz!

Some things I can’t live without in a waterproof/breathable shell. This includes a hood that is fully adjustable for helmet or bare head and cinches down to stay put in the brutal winds common in the Rockies. Also on my list of must-haves are ample pit zips (hey, I sweat a little ok?), a draw cord hem and a two way main zipper (great when wearing a climbing harness). I also like a little stiffened bill on the hood, kind of like a built in baseball cap. The Aegis has all this and more.

Some of the other nice touches include a soft driclime lining on the cuffs and collar, cuffs that are big enough to go on over your gloves and yet easily cinch tight (though they could go a bit tighter on my skinny wrists when I’m gloveless; which is really only an issue at high speeds on my motorcycle), a zippered sleeve pocket for the lip balm and what have you , and big zippered hand warmer pockets to carry said gloves in. The Aegis also lets you stow the hood away in the collar when you don’t feel a need for the full protection; like when you have your motorcycle helmet on, or if you’re just using it as a wind shell.

Finally I like the way it moves. With Marmot’s “Angel Wing” movement, you can easily stretch for the next handhold without the whole jacket needing to move, and although it is a hardshell jacket, it moves almost like a softshell; not at all stiff and crinkly.

With all this going for it, the Aegis comes in red to boot! (and other colors)

And at 14oz. you can afford to carry full foul weather protection with you at all times. whether rock climbing, alpine climbing or hitting the canyon twisties.

I know mine will be coming with me on many more adventures throughout the year.

Mark Hammond
Senior Guide
Colorado Mountain School
totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

Sterling Evolution Velocity Rope Review

2010-06-03T14:58:00.002-07:00

Zeal Optics Flyer Sunglasses

2010-05-26T11:44:00.002-07:00

Marmot Ascent 40 Pack

2010-05-19T15:13:00.002-07:00

Marmot Trail Wind Hoody

2010-05-12T07:28:00.002-07:00

I was fortunate enough to recently acquire the Trail Wind Hoody from Marmot. Upon first inspection of this garment it seemed great. It had all the features I would look for in a lightweight wind layer: Hood? Yes. Drawstring closure at the hem? Yes. Small pocket? Yes. Super lightweight? Yes. The garment talked the talk but could it walk the walk? I brought it to Canada for two weeks of ski touring to find out.

With the constant movement of ski touring it can be difficult to find an equilibrium with layers to not be too cold while not melting on the uphill. So with this equation, choosing appropriate layers is difficult. The Trail Wind Hoody outperformed my expectations. During a 2 day ski traverse we encountered rain, high winds, blasting sun, and total whiteouts. The Trail Wind Hoody left me cool enough for the 3000 foot climbs and blocked the wind on the 4000 foot descent from the top of Whistler. When the weather got nasty, I pulled the drawstring hem and cinched the hood to block out the elements. The chest pocket conveniently held my sunblock and lip balm for easy access. It fits into its own pocket for easy storage and at a mere 4oz. this jacket helped keep my multi-day pack under 30lbs!

This jacket will surely be a go to item for all my guiding objectives this year. Whether I’m on the Diamond or cragging in Boulder Canyon, the Trail Wind Hoody will be with me.

Eric Whewell
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
ewhewell@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Boulder X

2010-05-06T09:39:00.000-07:00

I have been mostly using my La Sportiva Gandas while guiding in the Front Range and Red Rocks and could not really imagine a shoe that would equal it. When the Boulder X came out I did not see a fit for my everyday use. Once I got it on my feet my pre conceived ideas were quickly changed. This is the most comfortable approach shoe I have ever worn that also climbs like a champ. The Boulder X comes from a long history in the La Sportiva line up and this shoe improves and has built on its ancestry. The padding in this shoe is what puts it above its competitors. The Vibram Idro Grip rubber is some of the stickiest I have ever used in an approach shoe. The tread is quite deep while not compromising traction and will greatly prolong its life. The shoe is built to last and this may be its only drawback as its a bit on the heavy side and slightly warm. In my opinion this is a reasonable trade off, as I want my shoes to last.

So far, I have used the shoe for a total of 19 days of guiding in Red Rocks and Smith Rocks where I even used it to climb the uber classic Johny Vegas to Solar Slab; a linkup of 10 pitches. Messing around on top rope I was even able to send the classic 12a Heinous Cling with the Boulder X although I did have to pull a bit harder. The Boulder X will be my workhorse for work and play. Come join me for a day of climbing in Eldo. The season is here!!

WEIGHT: 16.97 oz/ 481 g LAST: Boulder CONSTRUCTION: Board Lasted UPPER: Leather LINING: Mesh (back half and tongue only) INSOLE: 2mm Polyproylene/2mm La SpEVA MIDSOLE: Micropore EVA SOLE: Vibram® Idro-Grip V-Smear™ Impact Brake System™

Dale Remsberg
CMS Head Guide
IFMGA Certified Guide
dremsberg@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot Basic Work Glove

2010-04-14T11:35:00.004-07:00

Backcountry Access Climbing Skins

2010-03-30T10:39:00.005-07:00

Skinning is a huge part of backcountry skiing. We use them for most of our ascending to the top of peaks or in touring deep into the backcountry.

While touring in the North Cascades this February for an AMGA ski guides course we saw variable conditions that included a rain/snow/sleet mix that would freeze as we approached the summits. Backcountry Access (BCA) uses a more durable synthetic material that repels water in melt freeze conditions to prevent snow from glopping to the bottom of the skins. They work great for single day trips as well as long multi-day tours where skiers don't have the opportunity to dry out thier gear when winter camping in the snow. In addition, BCA is using new materials for better gliding. This helps me get the most out of every kick, which in turn saves time and energy for skiing the blower pow.

With backcountry gear, weight is everything. I am always looking to shave off an ounce or two anywhere I can. BCA climbing skins are lighter weight and more packable than most of the other brands you'll find. This makes them a must have for my touring quiver.

With most other skins that I have used, the big problem is they don’t stick. I was delighted to find out with BCA climbing skins after the glue has been used a few times the holding power gets better as the skin “breaks in”. I use these climbing skins with a pair of K2 Combas which fit nice and snug to the ski because of their deluxe tip and tail hardware.

I'll continue to use BCA climbing skins, I suggest you do too.

Hope to see you in the backcountry this spring. It's just getting good and we have so much more skiing to do before hanging up the boards for the rock shoes. Come and join me for one of our backcountry ski tours happening every week.

Cheers,

Joey Thompson
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
jthompson@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Dueter 45+ Guide Pack

2010-03-18T14:10:00.008-07:00

The Dueter Guide 45+ pack has all the bells and whistles… okay, no bells, but it does have a whistle - conveniently built into one of the buckles. I love to see added functionality with no cost to weight; it’s the hallmark of quality mountain gear. My favorite feature: The Alpine Back System provides a cooling channel of air along my back for the length of the pack, reducing the sweat-factor on those long chops up to Lumpy Ridge. Dueter’s VariFlex hip belt is as cushy as they come and adjusts way out for layered-up winter outings. This pack’s main compartment has a removable separator which allows me to separate gear within the load when necessary. It’s hydration system compatible, and carries ice tools and crampons without worry. An extendable lid is essential for me, and Deuter was smart enough to put one on. I can't go without the easy access allowed by carrying a rope saddlebag-style under the lid.

One feature that I would welcome adding to this pack is a small pocket on the side that I could use to stuff a CLIF Bar wrapper or a beanie into mid-hike. If I happen to be on the trail without pockets on my pants, a small elastic sleeve on the side saves me from having to stop and remove my pack to stow those little things along the way.

The Deuter 45+ is a great all-around pack - and tough. I’ve been rockin’ mine for more than 5 months. It’s been through the ringer, and has shown no weakness.

Luke Terstriep
AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor
Colorado Mountain School &
Boulder Rock Club
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO 80301
800-836-4008

Dynafit TLT 5 Performance Carbon Boot

2010-02-23T11:52:00.009-07:00

Dynafit is coming out with a new line of light weight touring boots for next year. I was lucky enough to procure a pair of the TLT 5 Performance Carbon boots for a little test run last week on a tour with Bruce Edgerly from Backcountry Access (Look for a Tracker 2 review soon). There are three models available for next year the TLT Race (lightest), TLT 5 Performance (middle weight), and TLT 5 Mountain (Heaviest if you can call it heavy at all.

The basics are this is a Dynafit compatible two buckle boot made of Pebax body and a carbon cuff. A single boot in size 27.5 weighs 2lbs 6.5oz (4lbs 13oz a pair). While not the lightest boot on the market it feels featherweight compared to my 4 buckle Titans. It comes with a heat moldable liner with a unique touring hinge in the back (Think of taking all the stiff foam out of the area by your Achilles tendon).

So what are the latest and greatest features, and do they work. The first thing you notice is there is no normal lever for the walk and ski mode. Dynafit has ingeniously created a way to integrate the top buckle into the tour and ski mode. When the top buckle is open you are in tour mode and when it is closed you lock into ski mode. This little detail saves a fair amount of time compared to my Scarpa F-1s. The boot is sleek and is a welcome sight for lower volume feet. The outer Pebax shell is formed for a snug fit even with a thin liner. If you have a high volume or high arched foot this may create an issue, but you will know when you try it on. The next feature is a removable tongue. While this is not a new concept it is certainly the first time I have used one that you can put into and take out of your boot easily. Simply open the 2 buckles and you can slide the tongue in or out. I took the tongue out for going up and put it in for going down. You can also simply leave the tongue at home if you don’t want the extra stiffness for the descent.

While tour modes have been around for a long time. The TLT 5 Performance is the first boot where my body was the limiting factor in how far I could stride while skiing. The boots feel like you are wearing sneakers with a taller cuff. Instead of seeing if the front of my binding comes to the other ski tip for a long stride, I was usually at the middle of my foot to the other ski tip and I am not flexible enough to get it further.

The boots skied really well downhill for a light touring boot. In fact I would say when I purchase a pair next year there will be a great deal on my F-1’s. I am looking forward to the opportunity to really give them a try on multiple tours and perhaps even in the Cosmic Randonee Ski Mountaineering Race series (http://www.ussma.org/cosmic/) this coming spring.

I look forward to seeing everyone out in the snow and please let me know if you have any questions or comments.

Mike Alkaitis
CMS Senior Guide
malkaitis@totalclimbing.com

Marmot Hydrogen Sleeping Bag

2010-02-19T13:01:00.005-07:00

I was looking for an ultra-light weight 3 season sleeping bag. The primary uses would be for ski hut trips in the Colorado backcountry and summer camping. Over the years, I’ve managed to get fairly efficient at packing and I rarely carry more than a 55L pack, even for several nights out. So the sleeping bag needed to be highly compressible as well. My final requirement was a full length zipper. I’ve tried bags with only a half zipper and they just didn’t work for me – I like to be able to stick my feet outside the bag when it’s warmer and the half-zips were something of a pain to get in and out of.

Enter the Marmot Hydrogen. Utilizing 850+ goose down, it weighs in at 1 lb 8 oz, is rated at 30 °F, has a full length zipper, and stuffs down to about 6”x12”. I’ve taken it on several hut trips and been thoroughly pleased. As you may know, the huts are heated with wood burning stoves, so the indoor temperature can be all over the board. Thanks to the small size of the hut and my zealous partners, the temps at bedtime were close to 60 °F and I appreciated the full zipper. But by morning things had cooled down significantly and I was burrowed comfortably into the bag with the zipper up. I haven’t pushed the comfort zone on the temperature rating (yet), but with the full mummy design and drawstring hood, this will be my go-to bag for all but the worst of conditions.

Here are the specs from Marmot.
Colors: Hemlock (4484)
Sizes: Regular: 6'0"/LFT
Long: 6'6"/LFT
Weight: 1 lbs 8 oz / 702 g
Fill Weight: 11 oz / 311 g
Size on Hip: 147 cm
Size on Foot: 101 cm
Temperature Rating: 30F / -1.1C EN 13537 Tested
Comfort: 39.2F / 4C
Lower Limit 29.8F / -1.2C
Extreme 1F / -17.2C
Main Material: 100% Nylon Ripstop DWR 1.2 oz/yd
Lining Material: 100% Polyester Taffeta DWR 1.0 oz/yd
Insulation Material: 850+ Goose Down

For more info check out: www.marmot.com

See you in the backcountry.

Matt Lipscomb
CMS Guide
AIARE Level 1 & 2 Instructor
mlipscomb@totalclimbing.com

Want to improve your backcountry skiing skills and gain confidence in decision making in the mountains so that you can enjoy one of the many backcountry huts or yurts in Colorado? Join CMS for a L1 Avalanche Course or a day of guided backcountry skiing this season.

K2 Darksides

2010-02-09T16:54:00.006-07:00

The latest addition to the wide ski market from K2 is an absolute blast. I was lucky enough to secure a pair of 174cm long Darksides from the new K2 Backside series. This series of skis was designed to combine the touring ability from Backcountry skis and alpine sturdiness from Sidecountry skis. From this can Mike Hattrups Backside series. Go to http://k2skis.com/news/2009/08/the-evolution-of-backside-adventure/ for the whole story and to see blog posts from around the world. The ski is the widest ski on the series at 154/128/144 and weighs in at 2100 grams in the 174cm length. The Darkside has a slightly rockered tip only and this allows for great versatility powder and on hard pack. The ski has a wood core (Aspen and Paulownia blend), and uses the K2 Hybritech vertical sidewall technology (Simply traditional sidewalls for most of the ski and cap construction in the tip and tail).

I have never skied a ski this fat and was curious as to how it would ski for me. The surprise came in how easy it was to ski. The groomers were not terrifying, nor did I feel I was on the verge of sliding to the bottom of the slope, and the ski was more agile than I imagined in powder. Would I recommend skiing the Darkside for a day of hard pack and groomers? No. Can you enjoy yourself on the way to your favorite Sidecountry stash or pocket of Powder? Absolutely.

The Darksides truly shine in the soft snow. They make you feel as if skiing is effortless and simply more fun. It does take a bit to get used to how fast you can ski and that you will pop over crud and push piles instead of going through them, but it is a quick adjustment. This ski truly shines when you are skiing fast and full throttle in powder and I must admit to backing off before I reached the speed capacity of the ski.

One of the great surprises of the ski was how well it skied in steep tight trees. The slightly rockered tip keeps the ski from diving and therefore you can turn with confidence. The landings from small airs in the trees also proved to be comforting in how predictable the ski behaved.

The Colorado Mountain School also has a pair of 181 Darksides and two friends John Winsor and Winston Binch were able to take the skis on a few runs. They both loved the ski and commented it was as easy a ski as they had ever touched. In fact, Winston liked it so much he is looking to purchase a pair as are two friends of his.

I will write shortly on the brake modification on Dynafit F-12’s to get a Salamon 130mm brake arm for the wider skis.

Get out there and enjoy one of the great new skis from K2.

Mike Alkaitis
CMS Senior Guide
malkaitis@totalclimbing.com

Dynafit Titan

2010-02-02T16:23:00.007-07:00

The Dynafit Titan AT Ski boot is the latest addition from Dynafit in the competitive high end stiff overlap ski boot you can still tour in. The Titan is a 4 buckle boot made from polyurethane (PU) plastic and comes in at a 130 flex and weighs 1600 grams per boot without liner in a size 27. The flex feels to be a true 130 flex during the first 15 days of skiing in the areas and out touring. I was able to test the boots at Vail and Beaver Creek as well as tours in the East Vail Chutes, Carbibou area outside Nederland, the Wasatch range, and Red Mountain Pass in the San Juans of CO.

The first thing you notice about the boot is that it is mainly white, with some red and black highlights. While I enjoy being truly stylish, it is more important to have great performance. The Titan does not disappoint. The Titan reminds me of a true alpine boot with the advantage of a large touring range when you are skinning. The touring mechanism is a small plastic switch and is easy to use. When you are in touring mode the boot is easy to flex through the entire range of motion and the buckles are well placed and seem strong.

When going downhill the Titan truly shines and loves going fast. You can lean into the boot and have a great response. I am interested to see how the PU Plastic reacts when the weather is warmer and the plastic softens a bit. So is the boot that different in stiffness from others? It certainly felt like it to me. It may also be the actual shell shape fits my foot exceptionally well.

So what would I change about the boot if I were king? I would change the liner. The stock liner the boot comes with is a good liner and feels comfortable after having a professional boot fitter mold them. The only downfall for me was the Dynafit TFX liner is slightly heavier (400 grams per liner TFX vs 220 grams per liner for the overlap Intuition liner) than an intuition liner and there is not enough foam in the ankle for a snug fit. I admit to having a skinny heal and ankle, but I hate to have my heal pull up when skiing. Other than this minor adjustment the Dynafit Titan is a great AT Boot for aggressive skiers looking for a stiff boot. Did I mention the boot comes with a Dynafit compatible sole as well as an alpine DIN sole?

I look forward to skiing this boot the rest of the year and writing a review of how the boot held up. Thanks and hope to see you out there. For another review of the Titan you can visit http://www.wildsnow.com and see another view.

Mike Alkaitis
Colorado Mountain School
malkaitis@totalclimbing
www.totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Speedster

2010-01-27T08:00:00.007-07:00

Having climbed in Mantras, Cobras, Vipers, and Venoms; I was excited to review this new slipper. The Speedster is the newest slipper addition to La Sportiva’s already expansive product line. With the Mantras, Venoms, and Vipers discontinued, the Speedster and the reintroduced Cobra are the current offerings in this genre. The Speedster is unique in that the midsole consists solely of a 3mm piece of XS Grip 2 rubber which extends from the toe to the heel; creating a wrapping effect (the edges are round). With the P3 technology tied into the figure-eight sling-shot rand, the shoe remains aggressively downturned, holding its shape. I was surprised that I wore the same size in the Speedster as my Solutions and Testarossas (I had to go down 1.5 additional sizes in the Cobra to accommodate the stretching). Speedsters don’t stretch nearly as much as the Cobra due the leather and synthetic combination.

Performance wise, this is a highly-specialized shoe for steep rock/plastic, or as a light-weight training shoe. Micro-edging clearly is difficult, and I would assume heavier climbers would have difficulties with such a soft shoe. Sensitivity and power are unmatched in this shoe – as you can feel and “grab” holds. The real standout between the Cobra and Speedster is the heel hooking. The Speedsters feel much more secure on tenuous heel hooks due to the P3/PD85 construction and aggressive fit. Steep sport, bouldering, and plastic are the Speeders sweet spot. It’s a great second shoe to toss in the pack when heading to the crag or gym.

Overall, the Speedster is a great training shoe or stand alone excelling on steep cave-oriented climbing or bouldering. I liked the shoe a lot more on BRC’s Tsunami Wall than the local techy climbing found in Boulder Canyon or at Flagstaff.

For more info check out Sportiva.com

Pros: Sensitive, Powerful, Light, Heel Hooking Shoe for steep rock/plastic
Cons: Very specialized, Durability, Edging

Dan Levison, ACE-CPT
Boulder Rock Club
dlevison@totalclimbing.com
303-990-1011

Marmot Scree Pant

2010-01-26T11:20:00.000-07:00

Backcountry Access: Tracker 2

2010-01-14T09:42:00.008-07:00

I finally got my hands on the new beacon from Backcountry Access – the three antennae Tracker2. The initial chatter was that these would be available last season, but in true BCA style, they were only 99% happy with the product at that time and insisted on waiting until they were 110% happy to release it. It was worth the wait. I unpackaged mine just in time for a long holiday weekend down on Red Mountain Pass – where they had received more than 14 inches fresh powder on New Year’s Eve!

BCA's goal with the Tracker2 (as with the original) was to make it first and foremost extremely user friendly. After using the original Tracker, I didn't think they could make a beacon any simpler to use. They did. There are three features that make the Tracker2 even easier than original: 1) The big yellow button that switched between search and transmit modes has been replaced with a mechanical pull tab. The yellow button was fairly easy to understand, but I saw students in L1 courses struggle with it, especially when the winds were nuking and the big expedition mitts made it difficult to actually feel the button. The pull tab is money. You can operate it with full gloves on in -22C weather (as I did last weekend). There is no question as to which mode you're in. 2) When teaching students to first use a beacon, one concept that is often lost in the process is that when you conduct a fine search (within 3 meters of the target) you have to ignore the directional arrows. BCA recognized this and the Tracker2 is programmed to turn off those directional arrows when you get within 3 meters. No more confusion. 3) The Tracker2 is FAST! Fast enough to deserve some flames or a lightning bolt decal. BCA advertises the Tracker2 as the only real-time beacon (says so right on the box). Being the skeptic that I am, I figured it would be an improvement on the original, but real-time? I'm here to tell you to believe the hype – the new processor and algorithm will move faster than you ever will, and blows the competition out of the powder.

What about the third antennae, you ask? The third antennae (along with the processor and signal processing algorithm) enables the Tracker2 to be incredibly accurate while bracketing, even for deep burials. Given that the average avalanche burial depth requiring use of a beacon to find the person is 1.2 meters (which translates to shoveling more than a ton of snow), you want to be as accurate as possible with the fine beacon search. I wanted to test this feature, but given our current shallow snowpack, and the arctic temps, I opted to evaluate it indoors. So I set a transmitting beacon on the floor under the kitchen table and hopped on top of the table with the Tracker2 in search mode. After conducting the fine search, the lowest reading on the beacon was 1.5, and was located perfectly plumb line above the transmitting unit.

For more info about the Tracker2, check out BCA's website.

See you in the backcountry.

Matt Lipscomb
AIARE Level 1 & 2 Instructor
CMS Guide
mlipscomb@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Want to improve your knowledge of avalanche hazard, gain confidence in decision making in the mountains, and get hands on training in companion rescue? Join CMS for a L1 Avalanche Course or a day of guided backcountry skiing this winter.

Black Diamond Fusion

2009-12-30T09:17:00.012-07:00

The new Black Diamond Fusion is out and I finally got to take them for a spin at Vail. Wow! What a great new tool from BD. I helped test the prototype tools in Switzerland two winters ago and was excited and impatient for this tool to finally make it to market. The Fusion is a hybrid from the Cobra and the older Fusion. With Laser or Titan picks, it climbs ice almost as well as the Cobra. Dry tooling with Fusion picks make sticking to the smallest rock edges no problem. This would be a great tool for someone who only wants one tool and would like to climb ice and mixed terrain equally. The Fusion comes with a built in hammer, a spike and adjustable handle to accommodate different hand sizes. For pure ice climbing I will still gravitate to the Cobra but when mixed climbing at Vail or if the climb I’m tying for has substantial hard mixed terrain the Fusion will be on my pack.

I would say that BD has once again set the bar for ice and mixed tools and Fusion will likely lead the pack for some time.

Weight : 672 g, 1 lb 6 oz

Length : 50 cm

Head : Stainless steel

Pick : Chromoly steel

Shaft : Aluminum

Grip : Co-molded rubber

For more information on the Fusion check out BD's website: blackdiamondequipment.com

Dale Remsberg
IFMGA/AMGA certified guide
Head Guide Colorado Mountain School
TotalClimbing.com
800-836-4008

Marmot Kingpin Jacket

2009-12-15T08:40:00.006-07:00

When alpine or ice climbing, one of the biggest issues I face is finding an appropriately fitting jacket. There are three questions I ask myself when selecting the right jacket for the right job. First, will the jacket fit easily under a harness? Can I raise my arms without the cuffs of the jacket falling below my wrists and without the jacket pulling out of my waistbelt? Finally, is the jacket moving with me or against me? With the advent of softshell technology and virtually every manufacturer making a softshell jacket, one is faced with a myriad of choices. I have had the pleasure of wearing many softshell jackets from a variety of manufacturers and I can surely say that the Marmot Kingpin jacket is my favorite.

I have spent at least 20 days in this product and it has performed above and beyond my expectations. The Kingpin stretches with me while I reach my tools for the distant ice thanks to the Marmot M1 softshell material. This particular piece is cut just a bit longer than most softshells keeping it from pulling out of the waistbelt of my harness when swinging above my head. There are two handwarmer pockets strategically placed on the chest so you can put your warm gloves on at the belay without interfering with your harness. Two drawstring closures allow cinching the jacket tight around your waist to ward off the wind on those gusty Longs Peak days along with the Polartec Wind Bloc membrane laminated directly to the softshell. I find it also quite useful that the hood can easily fit over my helmet when I’m out in less than ideal conditions.

I wear a large in this garment and it seems to be slightly bulky in the chest and stomach. The medium was a bit too short in the waist and arms. Aside from the slight sizing discrepancy, this jacket is now a "go to" in my arsenal of alpine climbing accoutrements. Did I mention it’s stylish too?

For more information check out Marmot's website: www.marmot.com

Eric Whewell
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
ewhewell@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Black Diamond Factor AT Ski Boot

2009-11-18T12:15:00.013-07:00

The Black Diamond Factor AT Ski boot is the flagship boot of their new ski boot line. All of Black Diamonds ski boots were new in 2008 and are virtually the same in 2009. I am writing this review after one full season of use. I skied the Factors through the entire season from long backcountry tours, to single steep area runs. The skis used were the K2 Coombas (181) mounted with Dynafit F12 bindings, and a pair of K2 Apache Chiefs (181) with Fritschi Freeride Bindings. The boots come with the BD Alpine DIN Blocks, but I switched out to the AT Blocks (Dynafit compatible) before the first use and never switched back.

My first impression of the boot was it was a well designed, four buckle, overlap design, with a 130 flex (from BD), weighed in at 7lbs 8 oz per pair without liners, and a new design of a liner (Power Fit with Boa closure system). I quickly went to Chuck Bird, the resident podiatrist at Neptune Mountaineering, to have my new liners heat molded to the boot and also mold a pair of intuition liners to the same shell. I have skied in Intuition liners for over 10 years and know what to expect out of them. With both liners molded I was excited about getting out to ski.

Where did I get to ski you ask? I had the pleasure of skiing throughout Colorado, and in a few places in Utah and Alaska. The days were a mixture of area skiing and backcountry tours with an emphasis on the ski decent. My favorite tours of the season were in no particular order: North Couloir of Buffalo, Eldorado Peak AK, Mt Otis Hidden Couloir, and the Elevator Shaft on Hallets.

What did I think of my Factors on these outings? The boots toured well while going uphill, but along the flats did not have enough rear flex for an easy stride. Luckily most of my tours had very little flat terrain to skin across. The downhill performance of the Factors lived up to my expectations at about 90%. I could drive a K2 Coomba with authority in powder and some crud, but the boot would flex out if I were in big bumps or really thick crud. The 130 flex seemed to be a bit soft and from a pure feel felt the same as an Alpine boot 110. I ski in the 26.5 size and in compression I can touch the middle two buckles together.

As I stated above ski boot liners are important to me. They are the key for a comfortable day of touring, giving a precise feel from boot to ski, and hopefully have no gaps in the padding to boot. The new BD Power Fit liner with BOA construction (it is a wire lace system that tightens and loosens with a circular ratchet) has a clean look along the lines of most Alpine ski boots. They are made of thermo formable foam (the outside of the liner does not stretch so the liner only molds inward), have a classic Alpine tongue, close via the BOA system, and weigh 1 lb 11.6 ounces per pair. I found the padding packed out after about 5 outings. They toured well and were comfortable on my feet. I switched out to the intuition liner after 10 days and here are the comparisons. The liners weigh in at 1 lb and .8 oz (That is just over 1 pound), have an overlap design (new Intuitions have the standard tongue), and are made from a stiffer heat moldable foam. It comes down to personal preference for the liners.

Over the season I read a few blogs about the Factors (the best being Lou Dawsons Wildsnow), skied with a few friends who owned them, and had good discussions with people I ran into while skiing. The general impression was that everyone loved the way they skied downhill, but that the boots could go through an update to improve a few things. The issues people had were: Forward lean mechanism could come out if the screws became loose, buckle could break, heal and toe plates difficult to trade out, wire on the liners can get stuck and not open, and boot not as warm as others. I am told Black Diamond addressed these issues in the following ways: Completely redesigned forward lean/walk mode mechanism to ensure it wont break, new metal for the buckles, made the boot board seal tighter for no air gaps (makes the boot warmer), and left the heal and toe plates the same.

I am looking forward to getting my hands on the new version of the boot to verify the changes and believe these changes will make the Black Diamond Factor the best AT boot on the market for aggressive downhill skiers.

Mike Alkaitis

CMS Senior Guide

malkaitis@totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX

2009-11-13T15:23:00.012-07:00

The Trangos in action on Sharkstooth

"So are you guys here for a guides exam?" my partners and I look at each other, feeling somewhat accused of something. "Why do you ask that?" we said. He replied, well the Colorado Mountain School jackets for one, and you all have those red boots on. Apparently the locals seem to recognize the red Tango S Evo GTX as a indicator that you are a visiting climber. This makes total sense, this boot is overwhelmingly the boot of choice for guides and recreationalists as well.

I have been using this boot for several seasons now and it is hands down the most comfortable mountain boot I have ever had on my feet. For a CMS guide, a normal week in the summer might consist of several Longs peak routes, a couple days at Lumpy ridge and maybe an alpine spire or two. All of this adds up to a ton of trail miles and always with a heavy pack. This means you need to do two things, lighten your pack when you can, and take care of your feet. This boot does both of those things beautifully.

The boot itself is very light (under 27 oz) so instantly you do not have the ankle-weight affect of the old heavy leather boots from days gone by. Not only is it light on your feet but it climbs so well that for most alpine rock routes up to about 5.8 I find that I can take my rock shoes out of my pack and feel 100% solid climbing in these boots (must be the sticky Supertech rubber). Now, when you throw in the ability to accept a semi-automatic crampon this becomes the ideal tool for all of the classic mountaineering routes I can think of. Kieners on Longs peak, Sharkstooth, Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan, Rainier, or any fourteener in the lower 48, the Trango S-Evo would be just the ticket.

These boots are durable, comfortable and very nimble, they climb better than some rock shoes I have owned and keep my feet dry and happy, I really cannot think of anything more I could want. This boot is without a doubt the best footwear purchase I have ever made.

The Details:
WEIGHT: 26.17 oz • 742 g LAST: Trango CONSTRUCTION: Board Lasted UPPER: Waterproof Cordura® with Idro-treatment/ Flex Tec 2/ Water-repellant Lorica® with Antiacqua™ / Vibram® rubber rand LINING: Gore-Tex® INSOLE: 7mm Trangoflex with integral nylon shank MIDSOLE: Micropore (forefoot)/ PU (heel)/ TPU crampon reinforcement in back SOLE: Vibram® Mulaz (Sticky Supertrek Rubber)

For more info check out Sportiva's website: http://www.sportiva.com/

Mark Kelly
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide
AIARE Level 1 &2 Instructor
mkelly@totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva TC Pro

2009-11-11T15:53:00.007-07:00

Testing the TC Pros in Vedauwoo

So La Sportiva came out with a shoe that lets Tommy Caldwell climb hard routes on El Cap with only one pair of shoes. What is this shoe you ask? The TC Pro (TC stands for Tommy Caldwell). I was curious if this shoe would really live up to its billing as a one shoe for everything you might encounter on El Cap so I decided to get a pair and test them out.

The La Sportiva TC Pros are a three quarter high top leather shoe based off of the popular Katana last. There is padding in the tongue, ankle, around the forefoot, and double thickness rand for extra comfort on long routes. The shoe is has a 1.1mm midsole in the anterior of the shoe, and is based on the great P3 platform. The new vibram compound sole is 4mm thick, sticky and holds its edge incredibly well.

With all the great features of the shoe I wanted to know how it performed. So I went climbing. Not just in one area, but in many, and on many types of rock. The Diamond, Vedauwoo, Shelf Road, Eldorado Canyon, and the Red River Gorge were my playgrounds and testing areas. The rock types were granite, limestone, and sandstone. The rocks were from slabs, to vertical, to overhanging, to super steep. I will admit I never used them on plastic.

The TC Pros were amazing on all the terrain I tried them on except for the super steep. The shoe was comfortable for all day climbing, sensitive enough for precise climbing, stiff enough for edging, and protective enough for cracks and offwidths. Tonay Yao and I confided in each other they were one of our favorite Shelf Road Shoes, because you couls stand on anything. I even went and climbed a few slab routes in them and enjoyed the climbing instead of being terrified. They excelled on all types of granite and on the sandstone of Eldorado Canyon. At the Red River Gorge they were awesome in the cracks, but I preferred the Solutions or the Speedsters for steep sport climbs.

All in all the TC Pro is a great new addition to the La Sportiva line. I truly enjoyed climbing in the shoe and will continue to use it at traditional areas as well as vertical sport areas.

For more info check out www.sportiva.com

Mike Alkaitis
Total Climbing
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO 80301
303-447-2804 ext 107
malkaitis@totalclimbing.com

Trango Big Bro

2009-10-14T15:03:00.010-07:00

Offwidth climbing requires a different style of gear than most traditional climbing: stiff shoes, tough pants, long sleeves, and layers of tape in odd places. But when an expandable tube chock hit the market, offwidth climbers really had their trademark. Big Bros were invented in 1984 by CSU engineering student Craig Luebben for his senior honors thesis. Craig was driven as much by his eagerness to climb (and protect) wide cracks as he was to complete his studies. While climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Craig heard a fellow climber mention the possibility of an "expandable tube" - Craig went to the drawing board. Twenty five years later, there is still no offwidth or squeeze chimney protection that is able to compete with the functionality of Luebben's design. In fact, the only modification that's been made to the original production of the Big Bro has also been made to nearly every type of climbing protection on the market - color coding.
There are numerous benefits to carrying Big Bros, but where they really shine is protecting wide cracks. Trango's Big Bro is the only product on the market that offers protection beyond about 6 inches and is the largest protection available at a whopping 18.4 inches. Several leading cam manufacturers build large cams and claim that they can protect cracks up to about 7.5 inches. This is true, but what they don't mention, is that these cams will only protect 7.5 inches when they are at the end of their expansion range, and when was the last time that you were psyched about placing a passive cam? Just one #4 Big Bro has a larger expansion range than an entire set of traditional cams. Big Bros are also lighter in the larger sizes, cost less than similar sized cams, and rack much tighter and cleaner than an equivalent rack of cams. On splitter offwidths, you can get away with carrying a minimal number of cams by walking one cam along with you, while placing Bros to leave for protection.

Proper placement is key to their stability and holding power. Big Bros tend to get a bad wrap in terms of their stability. If your placement is shaky, it isn't due to a design flaw - it's user error. A poorly placed nut won't hold a fall, but that doesn't mean that nuts don't work. With practice, Big Bros can be placed quickly and effectively with one hand - just ask anyone that was lucky enough to see Craig climb wide. The trick is to get the tube to settle as much as possible before climbing on, so that there is no room left for the piece to move. When I place a Big Bro, I like to turn the outer tube, gently at first, back and forth, while twisting the collar ever-tighter until the piece is completely truck. Big Bros can be a bit slow to place, but such is the nature of offwidth climbing - it's a painfully slow game. Once you've learned to place them well, they are ideal protection, because they don't walk and can be loaded from multiple directions.

No offwidth rack is complete without a few Bros - they bring even the most intimidating cracks down a peg. When your toes are on fire, your shoulder is bleeding, and you can't shake the thought of falling out of, or maybe even into that gaping black crack, it's comforting to know that Big Bro(ther) is watching you.

Colorado Mountain School Guide and Big Bro inventor, Craig Luebben, passed away on August 9th, 2009 due to injuries sustained while training for an alpine guide exam in North Cascade National Park. Our deepest sympathies go out to his wife Silvia and his favorite climbing partner, his daughter Giulia. To donate to the Craig Luebben Memorial Fund, please visit the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition or stop in at the Boulder Rock Club. Thank you for all that you have done for our sport Craig. You are missed.

For more info on Big Bros, please visit Trango.com

Luke Terstriep
AMGA SPI Certified Guide
Colorado Mountain School &
Boulder Rock Club
800-836-4008
TotalClimbing.com

Big Bro Gear Review - Luke Terstriep from Simon Fryer on Vimeo.

Sterling Ice Thong 7.7mm Twin Rope

2009-09-22T08:23:00.009-07:00

When I first received my Sterling Ice Thong 7.7 twin rope-set, my initial thought was that they looked so thin that I was frightened even in my living room. After a full season of use, I am now in love. I have used them on a few ice and snow routes, but have probably used them more often on long alpine rock routes in Rocky Mountain National Park. Occasionally, I will use a single strand as my ski mountaineering rope for glacier travel or for getting into, or out of, technical sections of ski descents. I have found this rope-set to be just the ticket for all of these jobs.

On snow and ice routes they seem to absorb no water, keeping them light and flexible when other cords would be soaked, heavy and frozen into steel cables. On long alpine rock routes they have a soft and supple feel in hand and flow smoothly, creating no more drag than a single 9.5mm cord. Unlike some twins, they work very well with an ATC guide or Reverso 2, and in taking and catching falls, they were not nearly as scary as I first suspected. Other twins I have had in the past were horribly twisty and abraded, easily making for fuzzy tangles and a short life for the rope-set. The Sterling Ice Thong is quite the opposite; not only are they snarl-free, but after many days on RMNP granite they are fuzz-free and still holding their shape well. As a testament to Sterling’s quality control, this is the first set of twins I have ever owned that were exactly the same length when I received them and have stayed that way over time. Their durability, combined with functionality and weight savings, make these ropes a worthy investment for anyone spending time in the alpine arena.

Take care,

Mark Kelly
AMGA Ski Mountaineering Certified
Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008
TotalClimbing.com

Marmot Mica Jacket

2009-08-11T08:56:00.003-07:00

Steve Johnson
Senior Guide
Colorado Mountain School
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
sjohnson@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

La Sportiva Exum Pro

2009-07-09T12:25:00.006-07:00

I’ve been guiding for about 25 years and am always on the look out for a better approach shoe. This class of shoe has its work cut out for it since it needs to hike comfortably AND climb well – at least on easy 5th class terrain. The La Sportiva Exum Pro’s I got at the beginning of the summer balance that equation incredibly well.

I’ll admit that I’ve loved my La Sportiva Exum Ridge’s that I’ve been using for a couple of summers now and was a bit dubious about the idea that La Sportiva was tweaking them and giving them a new name: the Exum Pro. Like most of us, I don’t like change…especially when it comes to climbing apparel that works. Admittedly, me and my gray hair come from the school of ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!’ However, since La Sportiva had discontinued the Exum Ridge, and duct tape or shoe goo was no longer an option for my old stand-bys, I reluctantly (and with some unbecoming grumbling) ordered ‘the new guys’.

Surprisingly, I’ve discovered that La Sportiva can teach an old dog new tricks – old approach shoes AND old guides! With the Exum Pro they’ve kept the ‘good’ and added some ‘better’ to it. They’ve added a softer feel to the Pro’s hiking comfort (almost like a running shoe!). The Exum Ridge was a bit harder with each step – something I’d learned to live with to get the climbing performance I wanted. Another added bonus of the Pro’s is their fit: a wee bit more relaxed. They are a hair wider in the toe box and a touch longer in the length which makes them even more comfortable on those steep descents. And climbing performance? The Pro climbs just as well as the Exum Ridge ever did.

Bottom line: If you’re a fan of the Exum Ridge then you’ll love the Exum Pro. If you haven’t tried either then this is one approach shoe that comes highly recommended from an old dog still learning new tricks.

To learn more about the Exum Pro and other great Sportiva climbing shoes please visit Sportiva NA

Bob Chase
CMS Senior Guide
bchase@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

Black Diamond RPM Pack

2009-06-07T07:34:00.020-07:00

Naturally, I’m pretty lazy. I don’t like doing things twice and I don’t like doing more work than I have to. That’s why Black Diamond’s RPM Pack is a real joy to have on many of my RMNP excursions. People often comment on the size of my packs, like: “Dude, that pack is tiny…how do you fit it all in there?” Well, where there’s a will, especially a lazy one, there is a way.

You see, I just don’t like carrying a lot of stuff. Carrying a lot of stuff feels like work and when I’m in the mountains I’d rather be having fun. The RPM is a light, durable, low-profile pack that can go anywhere I can. Folk always buy these do-it-all packs with all these pricey bells and whistles that are often the byproduct of poor design. Not so with the RPM. Its beauty is in its simplicity. The RPM is designed like a stuff-sack, so you can just cram it all in and then zip it shut; no annoying “lightweight” buckles to fumble with or too-long, face-smacking straps to endure on windy days. It does what a pack should do: stay out of the way, allowing you to move like it isn’t even there.

The RPM has become my primary guiding pack for many trips, especially for rock and alpine rock venues…sort of a 3-season, crossover pack. I can easily fit a 1st aid kit; 2.5 liters of water via hydration system; a rack of draws, lockers, cordelettes, etc; a rack of cams, nuts, and/or screws; my climbing shoes; a harness, a couple light layers or one puffy jacket; my lunch and my helmet always sits on top. For those light-and-fast alpine blitzes, two external ice axe loops adjust to carry whatever my route demands. The mesh side pouches come in handy for carrying my Patagonia Houdini jacket and Buff on one side and my sunscreen, lip balm, and gloves on the other. A design bonus is in the compression system. Once you unpack, rack up, and start your climb, you don’t have to worry about having a deflated, awkward-looking, and bulky wrinkled-raisin on your back. Simply pull the draw-cord and the RPM compresses down to fit whatever is left inside. I love climbing with this pack!

As if one could improve upon perfection, the waist belt ain’t one of those bulky, padded, “removable” jobs your grandma would use as a backyard lawn cushion. Instead, it’s an oddly effective strap that doesn’t cover up the gear loops on your harness as you climb (one of my chief complaints with other “climbing” packs). There are a couple of adequately-sized zipper pockets on top for carrying maps, compass, lighter and as always, a car-key clip so you don’t show back up at the trailhead looking like a douf in front of your angry friends.

One thing I wish the RPM had is a rope-carrying system, just a simple nylon strap like on Black Diamond’s Instinct pack would do. I lay awake at night trying to figure out how to rig a solution for this myself…no, not really. I just carry a rope mountaineer-style or stuff it inside for those sport-climbing days. Once again, Black Diamond has created a near-perfect lazy-man pack for those of us who want a pack that can do most of it without forcing us to do more than we must.

To learn more about the RPM pack and other great Black Diamond products, please visit BlackDiamond.com.

Andrew Councell
Guide/Lodging Manager
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Instructor
Colorado Mountain School
341 Moraine Avenue
Estes Park, CO 80517
800.836.4008
TotalClimbing.com

Sterling Ion 9.5mm Rope

2009-05-29T09:43:00.016-07:00

Carpenters have their hammer, Surgeons their scalpel, and Mountain Guides have their rope. I can’t think of too many other pieces of gear that I use on such a regular basis. Sometimes I’m in mountain boots (read my review of La Sportiva's Trango Extreme Evo Light), sometimes in rock shoes, some days I place ice screws for protection, some days nuts and cams, but almost always I have a rope with me.

Recently I had the opportunity to test the new Sterling Ion 9.5 mm rope. I put over 40 days of hard use on it. Over 50 pitches of ice, 25 pitches of rock and even several gym session mega-whippers. I would be lying if I said the rope looked brand new, but compared to some other ropes with similar use, the Ion is still standing and ready for many more deployments into harms way.

Pros: Very durable, easy to coil and uncoil, feeds for lead belays very smoothly, overall weight for such a durable rope is quite good. This will be one of my go-to ropes when I only need one for cragging or shorter multipitch days.

Cons: No factory middle mark (the middle mark is a great tool), when belaying two ropes at once from a top belay (auto blocking device being used) the Ion did not feed/pull as well as some other ropes in its class. For guiding multiple clients this makes my work a little harder and puts more strain on my elbows.

If you are looking for a durable rope in this size range I would put the Ion high on your list, as this rope will be at your side even after heavy use.

For more info, visit Sterling .com

Dale Remsberg
IFMGA/AMGA certified guide
Head Guide Colorado Mountain School
TotalClimbing.com
800-836-4008

Marmot Eiger 48L

2009-05-05T18:28:00.023-07:00

This is my first experience using a Marmot pack and I have to say, I’m impressed. Working as a professional mountain guide, I spend a lot of time in the field and subsequently lots of time wearing a pack. Therefore, I look for something that fits well and has simple, yet useful features without too many bells and whistles. I have found this in the Marmot Eiger 48L pack.

I first used this on a guided ascent of the Dragontail Couloir in Rocky Mountain National Park. The pack easily accommodated all the necessary equipment for a full day of Alpine abuse. Features include a crampon pouch, dual ice axe slots, and hydration system. The fully adjustable shoulder straps and padded hip belt made the approach comfortable.

When it was time to climb, the pack compressed to a more climbing friendly size. The removable top lid was able to fit inside and the side compression straps cinched for a more streamlined fit.
As we topped out in near white-out conditions, the mesh pocket on the hip belt was perfect for GPS and map storage to easily navigate on the descent.

There is no doubt that this will be my go-to pack for all guiding objectives this season. From classic alpine routes in RMNP to rock climbing in Eldorado Canyon, this pack can do it all.

For more info, visit Marmot.com

Eric Whewell
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Colorado Mountain School
TotalClimbing.com
800-836-4008

Black Diamond Chaos Harness

2009-04-21T07:30:00.012-07:00

There was a stretch of time when I had stopped using Black Diamond harnesses. While other companies were developing new designs and technologies, BD seemed to be falling behind the curve when it came to innovation in the realm of climbing harnesses. BD won me back to their side when they incorporated the “bullhorn”-shaped waist belt. However there was one notable exception – the original Chaos. I just could not get a good fit and found it to be uncomfortable, hot, and heavy. When the opportunity presented itself to try the new Chaos '09, based on past experience, I almost said no thanks. That would have been a big mistake on my part.

BD has developed a new design, Kinetic Core Construction, which sets new standards in function and fit. The 2009 version of the Chaos far surpasses earlier versions of this model and is among the most comfortable harnesses I have ever worn. While working a rescue course recently, I spent a lot of “hang time’ in this harness. My weight was distributed evenly between the waist belt and leg loops and the lower back support was incredible. The large gear loops made racking and gear management a pleasure. After a day of sport climbing, I got halfway home before I realized I still had my harness on – a sure sign of comfort in my mind.

There are a couple of things that could use improvement. I did not find the drop seat feature on the rear leg risers to be user friendly and I have some questions about the stiff gear loops getting in the way in off-widths.

Despite these minor points, the Chaos is a great harness. Whether used for work or play, this all-around harness is worth checking out. I look forward to seeing BD incorporate the Kinetic Core Construction into their entire line of harnesses.

To learn more about the Chaos harness and other great Black Diamond products, please visit BlackDiamond.com.

Ed Crothers

Colorado Mountain School

AMGA Certified Rock Instructor

AIARE Level 1 Instructor

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

Marmot Mica Jacket

2009-04-15T17:56:00.006-07:00

This spring I was in need of a new waterproof shell…bad! I’ve worn out my Precip after years of abuse in the mountains, at the crags, and in the bottom of my pack. When I jumped on Marmot’s website and saw the Mica Jacket it seemed to fit the bill. My criteria was simple: lightweight (7 ozs) and waterproof (MemBrain Strata). That’s all I was really looking for in terms of base features. Marmot has always been spot-on with fit made for the field. They pay close attention to details like hoods that actually work with a helmet and room in the arms and body that allow you to move when skiing and climbing.

When the jacket arrived I was impressed by it’s packability. It stuffs down into one of the two hand pockets (about the size of an orange). Perfect for clipping to the harness or shoving into my pack.

Then came the true test. Front Range wind and snow on an early morning ski tour in the Indian Peaks. It was one of those days in the Colorado high country, when winter returns with a vengeance. I’d dressed for spring, for a fast tempo skin and ski, not for these temps, not for nukin’ wind and recycled snow ripping through the air. The jacket lived up to my past experiences with Marmot’s gear. It worked - and worked well. It broke the wind and kept me dry. It allowed me to stay warm in the wind and not overheat on the skin. The cuffs stayed down over my gloves and the hood provided the needed room and protection.

I’m looking forward to the spring and summer season ahead in Rocky Mountain National Park. Having the Mica in my pack will be a relief when the wind howls and the rain decides to wash me off a climb. If you’re in need, check out Marmot’s Mica Jacket.

Cost: $130 – You can’t beat that for a fully waterproof shell!

For more info on Marmot’s '09 line, check out: Marmot.com

Simon Fryer
Boulder Rock Club & Colorado Mountain School
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO. 80301
303.865.3604
TotalClimbing.com

La Sportiva Wildcat

2009-04-07T07:25:00.002-07:00

The new Wildcat running shoe from La Sportiva quickly became my favorite running shoe this winter. The shoe fits my foot perfectly and is the most cushioned shoe from La Sportiva. I thought there was a chance this would make the shoe unstable, but I could not have been more mistaken. The shoe is stable, has good traction, and breaths well.

I have worn the shoe running on dirt, mud, snow, and ice. The shoe excelled in all but the ice arena and luckily I have a pair of Fireblades with the hobnails in them for that. The spring season will surely bring more mud and heat, and I believe this is where the breathable mesh will really excel. If you have cold feet, this may not be the winter running shoe for you. I wore the shoes in Alaska in February with heavy socks and they performed with aplomb.

If you are looking for a well cushioned, comfortable, trail running shoe, look no further. I have about 25 days of running on them and I look forward to the next 25. Happy trails.

Mike Alkaitis
Total Climbing
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO 80301
303-447-2804 ext 107
malkaitis@totalclimbing.com

Sterling Nano 9.2mm Rope

2009-03-31T07:07:00.008-07:00

The Specs: Technology in climbing rope manufacturing has taken leaps and bounds in the last 10 years. Where 11 mm diameter ropes were once (not too long ago) the standard, now rope manufacturers are able to make skinnier and skinnier ropes without much compromise in strength. Thin cords are definitely the new standard and Sterling Rope's Nano 9.2mm is the cream of the crop. They have created this rope as an ultra light red-point rope, that can still handle 6 UIAA falls. In Sterling's case, they actually round down to be extra safe for their fall ratings; In one of three tests the Nano actually held 8 UIAA falls. With an impact force of 8.4KN, the Nano guarantees a soft catch. And at a measly 53 grams per meter, a 70 meter Nano will likely weigh in lighter than your 60 meter 9.8mm.

The Rope: This cord is skinny. It will take a while to get used to handling it, both for the belayer and the climber. After you get used to clipping or belaying with this thing, you will be hooked. Right away you will notice how small the rope packs down, and the drastic difference in your pack weight. The sheath holds up to some serious abuse as well, with my 70 meter showing no signs of wear after over a year of moderate use. This rope actually gets a lower impact force rating than some of Sterling's larger ropes so you can expect an ultra soft catch if you happen to pitch from your project. I use one as a red-point rope, and recently I have been putting another one to the test as an indoor rope as well - I can't get enough. I've heard rumors that a 70 meter Nano is the best alpine single rope option, as well as rumors of doubling up 60m Nanos for an ultra burly half rope. It comes in three lengths and two mega-bright colors.

Overall: Don't be intimidated by the skinny cord. When first belaying with a skinny, I would suggest beginning by using a Petzl Freino belay biner if you'd like (for added friction when lowering), or simply use gloves. The Nano is as strong or quite possibly stronger than your 9.8mm, so don't let the thinness fool you. The Sterling Nano 9.2mm will pack smaller, weigh much less and handle better than you had ever thought possible, so don't be scared, go skinny.

J-Star (Jonathan Siegrist)
Route Setter
Boulder Rock Club
www.jstarinorbit.com

Trango Piranha Alpine Knife

2009-03-24T09:39:00.035-07:00

There are just a few pieces of gear that I carry with me on every climb: shoes, harness, belay device and chalk bag. The route dictates what other gear may be necessary, but I consider these pieces essential. A permanent fixture on my harness is my rescue biner. It consists of 1 SMC rappel ring, 1 lenth of 5mm prusik cord (I keep a second on my leg loop), and a Trango Piranha Alpine Knife, all clipped together with a small Black Diamond Enduro screwgate carabiner. I wear this kit clipped to my haul loop and locked, so that it is always within reach, but well out of the way.

My Piranha knife has come in handy on numerous occasions. It slices through tattered webbing with ease, has the precision to delicately cut away tape gloves, has the teeth and spine to cut through layers of gear in a medical emergency, and even features a handy bottle opener for kicking back after a long route.

The Piranha's blade locks in the open position easily with just one hand. Unlike some knives, it's blade also locks closed when clipped to a carabiner. Trango says that "it's absolutely impossible to open when clipped to a normal carabiner". This is the case with many carabiners, but some ultra-light carabiners, such as wiregates, do allow the blade to open while clipped. Make sure that you check the diameter of your biner in relation to the knife's keeper loop carefully before climbing with your Piranha. My setup makes it impossible for the blade to accidentally open while clipped, but to keep the blade from moving even a millimeter, I wrap mine with a super-thin strip of tape.

If you get caught out in the elements, a knife can mean the difference between life and death (read Touching The Void or Between a Rock and a Hard Place). Weighing in at a mere 7/10ths of an ounce, the Piranha is my silent partner. When you're in a pinch in the mountains, reach for the Piranha Alpine Knife. I don't climb without it.

For more information, please visit Trango.com

Luke Terstriep
AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor
Colorado Mountain School &
Boulder Rock Club
800-836-4008
Totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Hobnail Kit

2009-03-16T16:15:00.011-07:00

I started running in order to stay fit for climbing and skiing. It’s a great way to get the lungs working and maintain or improve my endurance when I only have a short time for a workout. It didn’t take long before I was hooked and now I find myself running in order to stay fit for… well, longer runs.

Throughout the winter and into the spring some of my favorite trails can be a hazard due to packed snow and ice. Too many times I’ve found myself gripped on a north facing aspect or a steep, treed decent.

When I discovered the La Sportiva Hobnail Kit I had to give it a try. While I screwed the first hobnail into my sole, I wasn’t convinced. Then I started running. The added quarter-inch stud was great on the start of the muddy trail. As I made the bend to the first stretch of snow, I started to believe. Then came the dreaded down hill. This time it was a full horror show. Smooth ice, like a Zamboni had just finished multiple passes. I was prepared for a desperate shuffle and feared the wrath of gravity. The Hobnails made easy work of the difficult conditions and inspired me to take a longer loop with another steep gully. There and then I declared that Hobnails were the Shiz-nit.

For my set up, typically I don’t plug too many of the studs into my shoes. I go with three up front and two in the back. This seems to give me enough traction without over doing it. The tool that comes with the kit makes it easy to “plug in and pull out” the studs and I’ve been pleasantly surprised with how little it affects the sole of the shoe.

If you’re looking to extend your trail running season and explore some areas that tend to get snowy and iced-over, check out the Hobnails from La Sportiva.
Avoid looking like Bambi on ice and gain a lot of traction without a large investment.

Hobnail Kit: $45
La Sportiva: Hobnail Kit
To read a Hobnail Kit review by our very own Jilly Salva, click here

Simon Fryer
Boulder Rock Club & Colorado Mountain School
2829 Mapleton Ave
Boulder, CO. 80301
303.865.3604

Backcountry Access Carbon 260 Avalanche Probe Pole

2009-03-03T09:06:00.012-07:00

OK, the BCA Profile 240 was recently reviewed here, but when I come across a great piece of gear, I want to sing its praises. So, please bear with another avalanche probe review.

Without exaggeration, the BCA Carbon 260 is the best probe pole I have owned in the 20+ years I have played and worked in the backcountry. Like the Profile 240, the Carbon 260 utilizes the super user-friendly “quickie” tensioning system. At this point these probes go their separate ways. As the name implies, the Carbon 260 is made of spun carbon fiber. Carbon fiber is noticeably lighter than aluminum and, more importantly, considerably stiffer. The advantage of a stiffer probe becomes apparent when probing for a victim in a deeper burial. In deep, dense avalanche debris, most aluminum probes will “deflect”; literally be forced to bend by the hard snow. This tends not to be the case with Carbon 260. I tested this by burying a small pack five feet in a snowdrift of week old plowed snow. Of the 5 probes that I tested, the Carbon 260 was the only one to consistently hit the target. Yes, there are other probes capable of this kind of accuracy, but they are specialized, heavy models often used by SAR Teams during organized rescue or recovery efforts.

There are other carbon fiber probe poles on the market, but what sets the Carbon 260 apart is that the silk screened depth markers are protected by a clear, protective coating. I am confident that after years of use these centimeter marks will continue to be easy to read. This is a big plus whether you are trying to determine burial depth or using your probe in a profile pit. Most other probes I have owned begin to lose these markings after a couple of years.

The $80 price tag may cause some sticker shock. However, in my opinion, it is easy to justify paying a little more for the best. This is a top shelf product for any serious backcountry enthusiast or snow safety professional.

Ed Crothers
Guide and Climbing Instructor
Colorado Mountain School
AMGA Certified Rock Instructor
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
2829 Mapleton Avenue, Boulder, CO 80301
800-836-4008
www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot Cauldron Jacket

2009-02-24T08:48:00.012-07:00

The Cauldron is one of the greatest jackets I've ever owned in regards to quality workmanship and all-around diversity. With its very reasonable price tag, even in this dark economic climate, you can probably find enough change in the pay phones around Boulder to get one at Neptune’s Mountaineering shop.

The Cauldron is great for skiing, cragging and alpine climbing, but still looks nice enough to wear out on a hot date to the Mountain Sun on a Friday night. For its weight and volume, the Cauldron is surprisingly warm and I've spent many comfortable 15-55 degree days wearing it. Weighing in at a miniscule 1.1 lbs, it’s almost invisible in a pack: stuffed, it can fit into most beer pitchers...(not that you'd want to do that; it's just a point of reference).

There jacket has just the right number of pockets, which are all just the right size and just in the right places. The two external side pockets have girth-hitched pull extensions that make access easier when wearing gloves. (The lack of which is one of my pet peeves. In fact, the only thing I’d like to see in future versions of the Cauldron is an addition of those same extensions on the other pockets). The elastic hem draw cord increases core warmth and tightening it up keeps the jacket clear of harness gear loops when climbing, allowing for easy access to gear for those desperate clips and placements.

The Dri-Clime lined collar is snug enough to retain warmth, but still loose enough to allow for unrestricted neck movement, and the Angel-Wing design really does keep the jacket from riding up during extended periods of over-the-head movement.

I conducted my own SEQCT (Severe Elements Quality Control Test) on the Cauldron jacket, the results confirmed by no less than 3 independent agents. I gave the jacket to my 3 year-old to play with when I felt I could part with it on an especially warm day. When I got home that night, the jacket was unscathed, with its zippers all in perfect condition, its loft retained, and the elastic as good as new. It had categorically rebuffed all the damage such a test normally inflicts. These results are remarkable, and speak volumes about Marmot’s lofty attention to quality. (pardon the pun). Marmot truly seems to be built by those who do what we do, so they know what we need, and they have delivered with the Cauldron jacket. Start gathering your pennies, and head over to your local mountaineering store and pick one up...even in this aforementioned dark economic climate.

You can check out more details of the Cauldron here.

Clint Locks
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
Boulder Rock Club
clocks@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

La Sportiva Katana

2009-02-17T15:55:00.005-07:00

"The Baby Blue Enabler"

Traditional climbing is seductive. Sometimes I try to end the affair, but am oftentimes won over by the allure and addictive experience that is climbing. Some days I question my myriad of reasons for staying in this relationship. Most adventures leave me with bloodstained hands from failed attempts at cracks, neck cramps from arduous hours of belaying and a fatigued body. These seemingly painful aches are simple reminders of my mortality. A mere mortal, I crave experiences that enable me to be a part of something infinitely greater than myself. Many would agree that climbing is one of those experiences. Many would also agree that those existential experiences are made possible by certain man-made items. My personal favorite, the artificial thing with whom I feel most intimately connected, are my Katanas.

She is baby blue, made by La Sportiva and has a narrow fit. Some says she is simply a climbing shoe. I disagree. During a recent trip to Moab, I decided to climb Castleton Tower. With the necessary help of my partner, my katana’s and my determined desire to dance on sandstone rocks, we climbed the North Chimney. I diligently followed my partner, removing each cam and nut, judiciously placing my feet on sandstone chips. By the end of the third pitch, I fully understood why most people have a love-hate relationship with off-widths. There is something enticing about being suffocated between two rocks. My back against one wall and both my feet anchored onto the other wall, I slowly crept to the finish of my first off-width. Yes, my body hated me. My legs were shaking with excitement and fear, knowing that at any moment either one of my feet could lose their steady grasp on the slippery sandstone. At that moment, I had little choice other than to trust. A trusting relationship had already been established with my partner, but somehow this relationship with my feet seemed less reliable. I would do my best and put my faith in this process.

My faith persevered and we summited. I reached the top, my shoes stained with sandstone, my hands covered in chalk, every muscle fiber throbbing and a smile on my face. This is why I climb. Few other activities evoke the sort of emotional vitality found in traditional climbing. Inevitably I find myself wondering how an old petzel harness and a pair of sweaty climbing shoes can save me from the depths of a mountain tower. More importantly, I wonder how I so willingly entrust my life to these seemingly generic items. After all, they are just pieces of climbing gear. The better part of me knows the truth. My Katana shoes, my harness, even my rusty belay device given to me by an old boyfriend, enable me to feed my addiction. They have earned my trust. They are reliable. And they enable me to freely experience the authentic thing we call life. I call it climbing.

Erin Nickel
Boulder Rock Club
enickel@totalclimbing.com
800-636-4008

Arcteryx S240 Harness

2009-02-10T09:55:00.003-07:00

The Specs:
The S240 is a streamlined, ultralight sport-climbing specific harness from Arcteryx. This is the lightest, simplest harness from Arcteryx's line of WARP technology harnesses. WARP technology is a revolutionary method developed by Arcteryx that takes a normal, sturdy piece of 3/4 inch webbing and fans out the webbing to distribute loads over a larger surface area. This allows for the harness to have very little padding, while at the same time being considerably more comfortable. The features of the S240 are streamlined for minimal weight and maximum performance. This model has two large gear loops and super breathable mesh leg loops with elastic fitting. It has a speed buckle and wear indicator webbing on the beefy tie in points; when the webbing turns orange, its time for a new S240.

The Ride:
The S240 is the Porsche of climbing harnesses. I have climbed in many of the leading competitors harnesses and my experience with the S240 blows the competition away. Most ultralight, sport climbing and redpoint specific harnesses sacrifice a lot of comfort for weight and maneuverability. Not here. The S240 provides all-day climbing comfort for those extra long hang dog sessions on your project (or your partners extra long hang dog sessions on their projects) all the while tipping the scale at a measly 248 grams. Although the harness only boasts 2 gear loops, rest assured that these things can be packed with rack. I have put 18 quickdraws on mine, no problem. The waist and especially the mesh leg loops breathe well if you find yourself runout and sweating. The speed buckle is safe and has you strapped up and ready to send long before your partner has stepped into their leg loops. One of the greatest things about the WARP harnesses is that they pack down to nothing. Arcteryx is known for their attention to detail and it shows on the S240. With impeccable seems and slick material, this thing looks really good. I have been using the hell out of mine for nearly 6 months and it barely shows signs of wear.

Overall:
If you are looking for a feather-weight, aggressive sport climbing or single pitch trad harness, the S240 cannot be beat. With the S240 and Arcteryx WARP design you can have the best of both worlds (comfort and performance) with this thing. It is everything you would expect from the world's best harness manufacturer and worth every penny.

J-Star (Jonathan Siegrist)
Route Setter
Boulder Rock Club
www.jstarinorbit.com

Marmot Ion Windshirt

2009-02-03T09:34:00.001-07:00

I have been a fan of the Marmot DriClime Jacket for years. Mid-weight insulation built into a windshell makes for a versatile, lightweight piece of technical outerwear. However, during the warmer months of the year or while engaged in high aerobic activities, the DriClime is a bit too much of a good thing.

So, enter the Ion Windshirt. Essentially, the Ion is the DriClime without the insulation and with the bonus feature of a hood. One of my requirements for any piece of gear is that it be multi-functional. This jacket fits the bill. When not on my back, it easily fits in a pant pocket on multi-pitch rock climbs, is always in a jersey pocket while out for a long road or mountain bike ride, and is around my waist while out trail running. The Ion has also made its way into my winter kit as a vapor barrier layer while out backcountry skiing and ice climbing.

As I have found with many Marmot products, there is excellent attention to detail. The thread count on all seams is high. The hood works very well over a climbing helmet and under a bike helmet and can be rolled up and secured with a simple snap when I want it out of the way. Unlike other windshirts I have owned that cost twice as much as the Ion, the zipper is bombproof. Sure, this adds a few grams to the weight of the jacket, but when things get real in the mountains, a blown zipper on a wind jacket reduce it to a worthless piece on nylon; I’ll take a few extra grams!

Whether out working or playing, there are a few items that live in the top of my pack at all times. With a superb weight-to warmth ratio, the Ion has joined the list. It is hard for me to come up with reasons for not having the Ion close at hand. Well, off-widths at Vedauwoo...but isn’t that what K-Mart sweats were invented for?

Ed Crothers
Colorado Mountain School
AMGA Certified Rock Instructor
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
800-836-4008
www.totalclimbing.com

For more information on this and other great outdoor gear, please visit Marmot.com

Black Diamond C3 Camalot

2009-01-20T10:10:00.008-07:00

I have to admit, I do most of my climbing in an area (like many areas around the country) that thrives on small gear. Eldorado Canyon has weird gear, funky gear, technical gear; whatever you want to call it. Protecting climbs in Eldo requires highly versatile gear. We demand a lot from our micro-cams because often times that is all we have.

It is easy to write a review on these cams because Black Diamond did their homework before releasing these babies. BD took the time to address many of the issues with other micro cams. And guess what, Black Diamond pull tests their gear! Quality is guaranteed.

These cams are easy to use. That sounds funny, but they just are. They are very light, especially when paired with a super light wire gate. They are color coded and match the colors of BD’s C4s. So you know that yellow is larger than red and red is larger than purple, etc. etc. The C3s also fit your hand nicely. The trigger bar is curved to fit your fingers. The thumb loop and thumb pad give you great opposing pressure for the tight springs. I have even found a way to extend my placements by putting the thumb loop against the palm of my hand and pulling back on the trigger bar. These things are stiff and do not flop when retracted.

C3s continue to amaze me with the quality placements that they allow me to get. Weird, flaring Lumpy Ridge cracks used to be a challenge. Now I can look for that small little pod and can slot a C3. Small pin scars in Eldo are no problem. The head size is quite small, but the surface area is large. Even though the C3s are a 3-cam unit, the surface area is equal to some 4 cam units due to the unique cam design. More steel contacting the rock is a good thing.

BD also produced a great size run of these cams. The largest, size #2, is approximate to a #.3 C4, while the smallest, size #000, is smaller than any other micro cam. Yes, I know they are only rated for aiding, but it will hold. The smallest 2 sizes are great as an intermediate piece and when combining with other small gear or “nesting” several pieces.

If you haven’t looked at the C3s, go to your local gear shop and try them out. Bend the stem and see that they will flex in horizontals or when slotted perpendicular. For the small sizes, take a close look at the cams. When retracted, the cams come around very far. You get a sense of their holding power because the cams retract so far and the contact point is exactly where you want it. The contact is not tight or at the top of the lobe, but right in the sweet spot. I also like the nylon slings. No need for super skinny slings for this application. The safety margin and longevity you get with nylon far exceeds any weight savings. Better than going to a gear shop, borrow some from a friend. I was lucky borrow the entire set for a road trip to Joshua Tree. That trip was enough to convince me that my other micro 3 cam units I had been using were very outdated.
Lastly, these things hold up. After using them for over a year and a half, I have noticed very little wear. They don’t seem to be effected by grit or dirt. The cam lobes are strong and do not deform under heavy use or falls. The plastic sheathing seems to keep everything clean and tight.

Oh yea, I almost forgot... Yes, they hold falls!

The details and specs can be found here. I will leave the detailed comparisons to you. However, let’s just put a few things to bed now. When comparing them the other small cams, they are as light or lighter, as strong or stronger, and have much better range. Period.

What I like:
- These cams fit, everywhere. They have great head size and range.
- When placed, they don’t walk, due to high spring tension and cam teeth
- Allow for quick placements in deep cracks or above your head. They are stiff units with plastic sheaths that protect the cables.
- They have exceptional holding power.
- Provide increased confidence as compared to other micro cams

What I don’t like:
- Small wires on the cams can snag clothing, pack, slings, etc. (a minor complaint)
- Cost is a little high, but so far worth it.

For the record, I didn’t get any C3s for free for this review. After borrowing a set, I sold all my old micro cams on Mountain Project last season so that I could convert my entire rack of small cams to C3s. Check 'em out at BlackDiamond.com.

Kevin Bains
Director of Operations
Colorado Mountain School &
Boulder Rock Club
kbains@totalclimbing.com
303-865-3521

Black Diamond Bottle Opener Keychain

2009-01-13T10:43:00.004-07:00

Picture this: I’m sitting down trying to open a bottle of brew with no luck at all. When all of a sudden an angel sent from Heaven above comes out from the fog. That angel was a Black Diamond rep. He hands me this fine piece of hand crafted steel and says, “Here you go man. I hope you get some use out of it.” In my hand is the Black Diamond key-chain/bottle opener. Clearly a gift from God.

Flash forward a couple years. I still have the bottle opener and it has seen its fair share of bottle tops. The Black Diamond key-chain/bottle opener is one of the greatest tools that I own. Not only is it a great key-chain but, get this, it is also a great bottle opener. How many of you can say you’ve got something that does that. This little device doesn’t take up much room in your pocket and it doesn’t hang too low when the keys are in the ignition. But don’t think less of it because of its small size, it packs quite a punch. I have yet to find a bottle it can’t open.

Well….when I mean a bottle, I mean a beer bottle or something similar. This thing doesn’t open water bottles. That’s impossible.

Anyways, this versatile little tool is just half of the Black Diamond nut tool. Some of you reading this might say, “Hey I already have a BD nut tool. Can’t I just use that then?” We’ll sure you can. But let me answer your question with a question. How are you going to fit it in your pocket? How are you going to press the gas pedal when it is jabbing you in the leg?

Don’t be a fool. Avoid bulky pockets and bruised legs. Purchase the compact Black Diamond key-chain/bottle opener. I give it 5 stars and I know you will too.

PS: I’m not positive that it’s hand crafted or made out of steel. But who really cares.

To find out how you can get your hands on this and other great Black Diamond products, please visit the Black Diamond homepage.

E.J. Nogaski
Colorado Mountain School
enogaski@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008 x3

BCA Profile 240 Avalanche Probe

2009-01-06T16:57:00.001-07:00

When I heard the word "probe" I used to think of beer-bellied, slack-jawed, pig farmers and San Luis Valley locals talking about their latest encounter with extraterrestrials. Thanks to Backcountry Access (BCA), however, I have a new frame of reference for probes after spending a number of days this season in the Colorado backcountry with their Profile 240 avalanche probe.

Thanks to their "quickie tensioning system," you can literally throw the probe together, assembling this sometimes-vital piece of equipment in mere seconds. Just a bit of practice will soon have you throwing the Profile together with alien-esque precision. Once assembled, the Profile is nearly 8' long, more-than-adequate for the average burial depth or "deepest" of backwoods farmer. With silk-screened depth markings, you'll know how deep the snow is under-ski, be able to measure your snow-profile accurately, and, God-forbid, be able to tell how deeply your buddy is buried underneath all that debris (See BCA's shoveling techniques for relevant information.) Breaking down the probe into stealth mode is a cinch; just pinch the plastic wings on the top to release the tension and it's done.

Constructed of light-but-sturdy aluminum, the Profile 240 collapses small enough to
fit inside your day-pack and weighs about 1/2 a pound,leaving you with little excuse to travel in the winter backcountry (or local UFO landing site) without one. Unfortunately, the Profile 240 is probably the only probe you'll ever be able to use on your friends and still have a social life afterwards. Can't have it all. So join me in turning your probe paranoia into probing power and together we can rule the galaxy, er, backcountry. Be safe!

Andrew Councell
Guide/Lodging Manager
AMGA TRSM Certified
AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Instructor
Colorado Mountain School
341 Moraine Avenue
Estes Park CO 80517
800.836.4008
(970) 586-4677
www.totalclimbing.com

Marmot Scree Pants

2008-12-30T21:09:00.002-07:00

The Marmot Women’s Scree Pant ain’t your mama’s pants … and thank goodness for that! Having worn many types of mountain pants, this style is sure to delight and surprise adventurers with its durable yet comfortable design.

Recently, I wore mine on a multi-pitch climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. They were comfortable and shaped for a woman’s body. The fabric is breathable yet not flimsy. No worries about arriving at the crag all sweaty. When it’s cool and windy outside your bum and legs will thank you for choosing your pants wisely. In colder temperatures you will want to add a bottom layer. The elasticized waist and zippered front make it easy to slide these up or down (great for quick pit stops). I originally thought the belt loops would get in the way or catch on gear, so far that has not been the case. The zipped ankle cuffs house a draw cord for snugging down over ski or mountaineering boots.

On this particular day, after I climbed a few pitches, it dawned on me that a climber definitely engineered these pants. The leg map pocket is just the right size and shape for stowing a topo, lip balm or maybe even your cell phone. The zippered hip pockets are angled so that you can access them with your harness on.

The black stretchy fabric is a plus because it seems to be virtually dirt and snag resistant. Despite multiple outings and brushing against coarse granite crystals, there are still no snags in the material. Dirt never seems to settle into the fabric. You can easily wear these out to dinner at the end of a day of climbing.

For weekend wear up in the mountains or around town these pants are a tremendous value. While the Marmot Women’s Scree Pants may not be your mama’s black pants, they are definitely this mama’s black pants of choice! You’d be surprised how handy that map pocket comes in for grocery store lists and snacks for my daughter.

I’d love to hear what your experiences are with the Marmot Women’s Scree Pants, especially the creative ways you use that handy map pocket.

Click

La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light

2008-12-24T14:09:00.005-07:00

My guests are always pumping me for what is the best boot. Its always a tough question to answer as there are so many variables. I always throw some questions right back at them, questions like: what seasons do you want to use them in, what do you want to climb, etc etc...

I was recently asked "the question” and after asking my usual questions, the responses I got were: a boot for the lower 48, a boot that will ice and mix climb well, and something that I can stay warm in Colorado in the winter but still use in the Cascades in the summer.

As a La Sportiva athlete I do get the luxury of trying many different models and with the above criteria a boot instantly came to mind. The La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light is a perfect boot to crossover the seasons as it has Gore Tex Duratherm that keeps the feet nice and toasty on those single digit days. The boot is very nimble and light and climbs ice and mixed routes with ease. The rocker sole works well on those longer approaches in the Cascades and the Gore Tex Duratherm will help keep you dry in wet conditions.

This is one of my most used boots and one of my favorites in the all around category. If you are in need of a new boot and only can get one that will perform well in many situations this may be your boot.

Dale Remsberg
UIAGM/IFMGA Licensed Mountain Guide
Colorado Mountain School
www.totalclimbing.com
www.gravityguide.com

For more information on the Trango Extreme Evo Light and other La Sportiva products, please visit: LaSportiva.com

*Photo courtesy of Roy Leggett

K2 Apache Coomba Skis

2008-12-17T08:25:00.003-07:00

I've gotta be honest, I’m slightly biased with this review. In my eyes, Doug Coombs is by far the all-time legend of big mountain skiing. He was also a friend, with whom I was fortunate enough to make turns, share a few pitches, and celebrate with a beer or two, or three, at the end of an amazing day. So when the Coomba hit the market there wasn’t a price tag that would keep me from riding a pair. Although, you’ll be happy these all mountain fatties aren’t that crushing on the bank account (about $600), especially when you look at it’s competition.

The Coomba performs like a dream in pow and it’s light for it’s size (135/101/121 and a little over 8 lbs). During the all day tour, it busts through the crud and handles wind crust… well as good as you can ski wind crust. The snow has just started to fall here and I’m itching to get out on my Coombas. If your looking for a new addition to your quiver the Coomba is the ticket. Think snow and stay safe in the backcountry.

Simon Fryer
Boulder Rock Club & Colorado Mountain School
2829 Mapleton Ave
Boulder, CO. 80301
303.865.3604

For more information on K2 equipment, please visit K2.com

Garmont Axon Ski Boot

2008-12-10T16:47:00.000-07:00

It is amazing to sit down and write about a boot I have become so fond of over the last year. The Axon was Garmont's new addition to the beefy freeride line and is Dynafit compatible. The big boot skied with precision and feel, while the uphill was smooth and easy with the Dynafit bindings. The Axon is a bit heavy at 9 lbs. a pair, but the comfort, durability, and stiffness all make up for the weight.

One of the best features of the boot is the durability. I skied on the boot over 40 days last winter and spring and the shell and sole have stood the test of time. From short trips up and down the Dragon Tail Couloire in Rocky Mountain National Park to the longer spring tours on Drift Peak, these boots always seemed to be the perfect model for me.

The liner is greatly improved over the prior year and fills the boot out nicely. Remember to get the liner professionally formed for a great fit and lasting comfort. Colorado Mountain School has been using Chuck Bird at Neptume Mountaineering here in Boulder Colorado and we can not say enough great things about him.

Please let me know what you think of the Axon boot and I look forward to sharing with you a review of the new Garmont Radium and Black Diamond Factor boots. Both of these use the new (for AT) overlap construction for added stiffness and lighter weight. Also stay tuned for a review of the new Black Diamond Push Telemark Boot.

Michael Alkaitis
Total Climbing
2829 Mapleton Ave
Boulder CO 80301
303-447-2804 ext 107

For more information on Garmont equipment, visit Garmont.com
For Chuck Bird's footwear expertise, visit NeptuneMountaineering.com

La Sportiva Miura VS Rock Shoe

2008-11-26T08:56:00.004-07:00

I was curiously excited to try out the miura vs when they first came out. Would I crush all my projects all of a sudden? Out of the box the shoes fit like a glove. I have been wearing Sportiva shoes for years, so it might be that my feet have been molded into the shape of sportiva shoes. Who knows? The three velcro closures were great for easy on and off. The heels felt perfect. I was ready to crush!

When I first tried the vs's out, the climbing was a little clunky. I felt like I was wearing elevator shoes. That was probably because I was use to much softer, thinner slippers. I did feel confident on standing on tiny little dimples. My project was this slab in Boulder Canyon, so I was excited to try my luck with the new shoes. At the crux of my proj, I did stand up with renewed confidence, only to have my foot pop a few seconds later. Damn the stiffness of new shoes! A couple of more tries with the same result. I left frustrated having not sent, but confident that my news shoes would bring me glory soon...

I sent my slab project the next try back and have been very happy with my miura vs's ever since. The initial clunkiness only happens if you are use to a slipper. They really aren't that thick. It's all what you are use to. I really love the new xs grip rubber though. They have given me newfound confidence in standing on nothing.

Over the summer, I managed to send many a project, albeit I did not magically crush them. In the end, it took a lot of trying hard and well, trying harder. But I did have a lot of confidence in the shoes I was wearing. The miura vs's came in handy a lot. Today, they are coming close to needing a resole. They are on the cusp of performance and repair. The sensitivity of the shoes are unrivaled, but just barely. Probably another try or two, and it will be time for the cobbler. Until then, I will slip them on whenever I am ready to try hard.

Tony Yao
Boulder Rock Club
2829 Mapleton Ave
Boulder, CO 80301

For more information on the Miura VS and other La Sportiva products, please visit: LaSportiva.com